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Guerlain reinvents its temple of beauty

by pascal iakovou
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In 1914, the House of Guerlain set up shop at 68 Champs Elysées. In 2013, Guerlain entrusted architect Peter Marino with the task of looking at the old part of the store and imagining the continuation of the story.


In a large white marble entrance overlooking the Champs Elysées, a seven-meter-high skylight has been designed to showcase an installation of golden bees designed by artist Gérard Cholot, le Vol des Abeilles. Visitors to this new space are greeted by the symbol of Guerlain, the bee that has been part of the House’s history since 1853.

An exquisite space that beautifully links the past and present of the house. You’ll find archives of Guerlain collections, the famous perfume trees where you’ll find the full range of products, as well as private salons for custom perfume creations. Other magnificent rooms include the institute and the famous 68 restaurant.

What a pleasure it was to attend the opening of this dream boutique in the company of Natalia Vodianova and miss Monde.

Guerlain is thus changing the face of its historic Boutique at 68 Champs-Elysées, a change of scale that makes it more than ever the place to meet new people, to fall in love with, establishing itself as the destination for a true French art de vivre.

The Boutique transforms itself into a cabinet of curiosities, enchanting you with its ever more audacious creations.

“La Collection du 68”
Each year, this collection will be renewed for small pleasures or the folly of grandeur. Perfumes, scented accessories or to be scented… for an “art de vivre à la parisienne”, between tradition and trendy chic.

1. Le Parfum du 68: homage to the roots
1914. Paris was abuzz with activity, and Guerlain set up shop on the Champs-Elysées. Beauties flocked to discover “this new temple of beauty”, and to celebrate the event, Jacques Guerlain presented them with Parfum des Champs-Elysées in a magnificent and unusual Baccarat crystal Tortue bottle, an ironic reference to the slow pace of construction.
An Extrait version. This olfactory nectar required the most beautiful of bottles. For Le Passeur du Temps, Guerlain reinterprets the legendary Tortue bottle from 1914, revisited by Baccarat in black crystal. A technical feat made possible by the restoration of a 100-year-old mold. This exceptional bottle comes back to life under its glass cloche, sublimated by a fairy-tale décor of Paris, gilded with 24-carat fine gold. This meticulous work was carried out by a Maître d’Art from Ateliers Gohard, specialists in restoring the gilding of such prestigious historic monuments as the Invalides dome, the Concorde obelisk and the Château de Versailles. Thierry Wasser has imagined a spicy woody fragrance in the image of Parisian nightlife: a fragrance of contrasts, warmth and sophistication that opens with the unctuous sweetness of sparkling mandarin spiced with cardamom. Flowers give it a luminous, golden lift: jasmine, magnolia, orange blossom and immortelle come together in this original bouquet, lined with the sweetness of Tonka bean, benzoin and cistus. Cedarwood and incense bring the final touch to this unique fragrance for those grand Parisian evenings.
An Eau de Parfum version. For this fragrance from ’68, Thierry Wasser continues to draw inspiration from the very essence of the House of Guerlain. Between past and future, this chic fragrance is more than a tribute, it’s a declaration. The fragrance is a spicy, woody floral, playing with fire beneath the ice by contrasting cold and warm spices. It magnifies immortelle and rose in a singular floral duo. A bouquet of heliotrope and benzoin wraps the fragrance in a wildly Guerlain trail. The bottle, whose platinum silkscreen pays homage to the façade of the legendary address, is set off by a sober, elegant glorifier in textured paper, embossed with the design of the façade of 68 Champs-Elysées.
Hall of Mirrors
2. Souvenirs from 68
Would you like to share a souvenir of your stay in this unique location? Simply post a stamped perfume card featuring the House’s emblematic Astre in the letterbox at 68 Champs-Elysées. Guerlain is reissuing its most beautiful historical posters in a collection of five postcards, a collection that is destined to grow. Indeed, Guerlain has always called on the most talented poster artists to illustrate its creations with veritable works of art: Cassandre, Nikasinovitch and Elise Darcy, who in the 1930s used flat tints with powerful strokes to express L’Heure Bleue, Sous le Vent, Vol de Nuit, Véga and Maison lipsticks. These masterpieces, highly prized by collectors, are now available in the form of perfumed postcards… to keep or send a piece of that perfumed dream.

3. The “Fond de Cuve” Collection
The House of Guerlain has some well-kept secrets, which it is revealing exclusively at 68 Champs-Elysées. Such is the case with an ancestral manufacturing recipe, in use since 1828: the “Fond de Cuve” formula. Its mystery and subtle balance lie in a particular dosage and harmony of raw materials, precise dilution and meticulous maceration. To recreate the Parisian ambience of a Guerlain Boutique in your own home, simply light the flame of a Fond de Cuve candle and feel once again the expression of the House’s olfactory heritage: notes of rose, jasmine, iris, balsam, vetiver and patchouli, enhanced by spicy notes, blossom voluptuously in the air. L’Art de vivre Guerlain also recommends a new perfuming ritual, generous and elegant. Rub La Cologne Fond de Cuve pour le bain onto your skin to experience a unique sense of well-being, provided by the freshness of bergamot and petitgrain blended with the aromatic notes of lavender. Pour a few drops into the bath water to relax and revitalize.
Bee Bottle in the Private Consultation Salon
4. Rouge G, edition 68
This jewel case with white gold reflections was conceived by Olivier Echaudemaison and designed by Lorenz Bäumer, a talented jeweler from Place Vendôme. A jewel of technology, Rouge G has horizontal curves reminiscent of those of a woman, and holds a secret: a mirror that reveals itself on opening. An exceptional object needs an exceptional formula, with a star ingredient: ruby powder, which acts like an optical brightener to enhance the color and shine of the shades. The formula combines natural active ingredients from traditional medicine (Tiger grass, wild mango butter, Guggul resin) to plump, smooth and soften lips. A wink: shade no. 68, whose number appears as “strassed” on this collector’s edition, is a bright, sophisticated fuchsia, the Parisienne’s signature color.
5. Ladies in all climates, universal light powder
Guerlain reinvents one of its legendary powders in a limited, numbered series. Once upon a time, in 1897, Ladies in all climates powder was designed to illuminate and refresh the complexion. In the age of Impressionist painters and photography, Maison Guerlain wanted to capture the elusiveness of atmospheric variations. New forms of transport offered women the chance to travel to all latitudes, and Guerlain continued to expand worldwide. The aim was to appeal to all women, whoever they were, wherever they were. In 2013, the House of Guerlain is exclusively reissuing 400 numbered pieces of this exceptional powder, which still envelops the skin in a delicate, transparent veil of light.
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6. Les Délices du 68
At Guerlain, fragrances have always had an epicurean air. To further cultivate the art of gourmandise, Les Délices du 68 are offered to your taste buds, to be enjoyed at “68” or at home.
Guerlain teas. A range of seven exclusive references has been carefully selected with Constance Braud, creator of Constance teas. These exceptional teas are an invitation to discover this age-old beverage, and exalt the olfactory notes of legendary Guerlain fragrances, in perfect sensory harmony.
Shalimar tea, for example, is an intense, voluptuous tribute to perfumery’s first oriental, a blend of Asian green and black teas, with aromas of vanilla, bergamot, cinnamon, cardamom and lavender.
La Petite Robe Noire black tea has fruity, spicy, mischievous accents. A tea with character, intense and gourmand, very energizing, like a dapper Parisian dressed in a twirling little black dress.
Habit Rouge is a Chinese black tea, called Aiguilles d’or, of high FTGFOP grade. Made exclusively from golden buds, its quality is exceptional, its strength and aroma reminiscent of leather, honey and the slightly smoky notes of the eponymous perfume.
Nérolia Bianca is a white tea from China’s Fujian region, harvested once a year in spring. Its aromas evoke notes of zest, damp wicker, honey and flowers. This delicate blend plunges us into the fresh, luminous flight of Aqua Allegoria’s latest creation.
Heure Bleue tea is a Taiwanese Oolong, Dong Ding, which means “Frozen Mist of the Peaks”, in reference to the mountain where it is grown. It has gourmet aromas of chestnut, honey and white flowers, and is enjoyed at dusk for its soothing properties.
Orchidée Impériale tea finds its echo in a Chinese black tea with orchid aromas, in a perfect balance between tea and flower, the result of a subtle dosage. A symbol of femininity in Asia, the orchid is known for its longevity properties.
Liu tea is a green tea scented with jasmine flowers, subtle in the image of Liu, a voluptuous floral fragrance, a hymn to femininity and true love.
Guerlain honey. “Grand cru 2013” is an exclusive, limited edition of honey harvested from the beehives on the Guerlain perfume production site in Orphin. The House could not fail to celebrate once again the bee, its original symbol. The bee, round and light, now gives us its honey, a precious and exclusive nectar.
The Teas
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“Les Folies du 68

1. Vol de Nuit
80th Anniversary Edition. 1933, the birth of a legendary fragrance. With Vol de Nuit, Jacques Guerlain takes us on a timeless journey to uncharted spaces and pays tribute to his friend, poet and aviator Antoine de Saint-Exupéry. Vol de Nuit is one of Guerlain’s most faceted fragrances. Rare, enigmatic and daring, with notes of galbanum, spices and undergrowth. The bottle, designed by Raymond Guerlain and produced by the Baccarat and Pochet du Courval Houses, features a propeller motif. Worthy of modern-day heroes, it combines the unique beauty of the object with the technical prowess of its creation. In the summer of 1943, Consuelo de Saint-Exupéry wrote this passionate letter to her husband: “My darling […] I am well rewarded for having said yes to you. I am yours. And I continue to be your constant companion. Wearing a coat embroidered with tears, I think of you. Little things sometimes console me. Exiled from France, I breathe in my perfume Vol de Nuit by Guerlain”.
In 2013, Guerlain celebrated the anniversary of this perfume with its timeless modernist aesthetic by adorning in gold a number of vintage bottles with a singular 56 ml capacity, preciously preserved in its archives. The propeller and cap of each of these pieces are crafted in ethical gold by Maison JEM (Jewellery Ethical Minded), in the purest tradition of French goldsmithing. Ethical gold is sourced from biodiversity-rich regions of South America. Extracted from certified artisanal mines, it benefits from ethical and ecological precious metal mining programs. The JEM Process hallmark attests to this responsible approach to jewellery, with its concern for people and nature.
Au fil du temps selon Guerlain. Just as the House’s fragrances laugh at the passage of time, Guerlain has created an object of pure audacity, a first in watchmaking history: a perfumed watch. But how is this possible? At first glance, this watch has the sober, rectangular geometry of the Vol de Nuit bottle. It has all the precious trappings of jewelry: 18-carat white gold, a dial adorned with 32 white diamonds on top and 134 black diamonds inside. All set with 76 white diamonds, like a constellation of stars in the Milky Way. And at the heart of this beautiful object of desire are a few drops of perfume. A little pressure on the winder and it diffuses its fragrance (which the lucky owner of this exceptional object has the luxury of choosing). This technical feat combines the expertise of the watchmaker in its inner mechanism, that of the jeweller in the selection and setting of the diamonds, and that of the perfumer in the fragrance it contains. Guerlain’s Temps is decidedly audacious.

2. L’Abeille
Guerlain’s entire history is made up of exceptions. L’Abeille is one of them. With audacity and inspiration, it plays its part with perfection. Let’s go back to the time when Guerlain engraved imperial bees on a bottle that would soon become a fetish. In 1853, Pierre-François-Pascal Guerlain created Eau de Cologne Impériale for Empress Eugénie, and entrusted glassmakers
Pochet du Courval with the manufacture of an emblematic bottle engraved with Her Majesty’s coat of arms. A bee, symbol of the Empire and emblem of Guerlain. Since then, Guerlain has never ceased to pay tribute to the bee, which continues to inspire so many beautiful creations.
A sculpture captures the winged finesse of its silhouette in a Baccarat crystal bottle, faceted like a diamond, playing with the light, resting and looking at itself like a masterpiece. This crystal sculpture embodies the very best of French luxury, beauty and perfection, right down to the silk barbichage, the crystal earring and the soft leather jewelry box. Three times over, the bee has adorned itself with its precious hand-crafted bottle. First, its wings became a play on transparency, then reflections of gold and finally flashes of silver. And three times, Thierry Wasser composed an exceptional trail for these jewel-like bottles, which were distributed on an ultra-exclusive basis, with around 50 numbered pieces on offer in Guerlain Boutiques worldwide.
To prolong the dream, the bee is no longer cut in diamonds, but cut in diamonds. A unique jewel-perfume, Le Secret de la Reine is worn as a clip or pendant, attached to a chain that unfurls, in Morse code and sparkles, the sweet words “Aimer pour vivre, vivre pour aimer” (Love to live, live to love). Its aura unfolds in the shimmering transparency of rock crystal and the precious yet discreet support of platinum. Diamonds play a major role in this exceptional creation, which combines several talents: the know-how of the watchmaker through its inner mechanism, the jeweller through the cutting of the crystal and the setting of the diamonds, and finally the perfumer through the olfactory material housed in the heart of the bee, which can be perfumed with the fragrance of your choice. Over 14 carats of diamonds and more than 500 hours of work to design, cut, polish, set and assemble… to create this object of desire. We can already imagine it resting on its little black dress, and we want to follow its contours with our fingertips, pass it back and forth in the light and, wonder of wonders, smell it. Because this precious bee speaks fluent Guerlain: a little pressure on the pear-shaped diamond adorning its chest and it opens its wings, releasing its exquisite fragrance.

3. Haute Couture fans
The fan has been an accessory of elegance and comfort since Antiquity. From the 17th century onwards, the fan was no longer just for fanning oneself, but also for making many things heard… If a fan is opened and closed several times in a row with a sharp snap, there’s no need to insist: annoyance is bound to build! But if the open fan stops under the chin and a promising smile appears on the lips, it’s a confession: “I love you”. The fan is a unique object in the history of art, combining the artist’s creativity with the skills of a dozen exceptional craftsmen. Under the Restoration, French fan production underwent a tremendous revival. Guerlain’s boutique on rue de Rivoli, then rue de la Paix, offered fashion and beauty accessories such as combs, fans and gloves, which were featured in his catalogs.
A few steps away, also on rue de la Paix, the Maison Duvelleroy has been making fans since 1827. It shares a common history with Guerlain, having served the Empress Eugénie. Pierre-François-Pascal Guerlain dedicated his Eau de Cologne to her, while Duvelleroy created a wedding fan for Napoleon III’s future wife. The Second Empire was a brilliant period, when elegance had to be permanent. Chiseled like a jewel or stretched out in precious silk, the fan was the ideal accessory to accompany a woman everywhere, to the ball, to the theater, for a stroll or in her apartment.
In 2013, the Maisons Guerlain and Duvelleroy revive this refined fashion and their shared history, by creating two exclusive fan models, hand-crafted with respect for haute éventaillerie française. Presented exclusively at 68, Champs-Elysées, they can be perfumed according to the lucky owner’s choice, for the beauty of the gesture. Two very different creations that combine the artist’s creativity and the expertise of exceptional craftsmen.
The bridal bouquet. A tribute to the fan designed by Maison Duvelleroy for the wedding of Empress Eugénie. Light and voluminous, it reveals a delicate assembly of petals sewn into the folds: a sheet of white plumetis stretched over a pearl mother-of-pearl frame, and scattered organza flowers made of chiffon and plumetis. The ensemble is crowned with white marabou and iridescent sequins embroidered in transparent. Like a rare and precious bouquet, this fan has been hand-crafted to sublimate the wake of a very special day in a woman’s life.
The golden fan. Gold is Guerlain’s signature material. This fan is dressed in a sober sheet of black silk satin. The ebony frame is embellished with straw marquetry in amber and honey tones. Sober in appearance, it unfurls like a peacock to reveal the luxuriance of a goldsmith’s work: a scalloped motif applied with gold leaf sparkles with fine black sequins. This fan has been hand-crafted by one of France’s last master fan-makers. It will be presented exclusively at 68, Champs-Elysées, and can be scented.

4. Perfumed Gloves
Heir to the perfumers who supplied the Court of Kings, Guerlain could not but revive the ancestral alliance of luxury that united the fashion and perfume trades, through the glove, “this beautiful garment of the hand”. Perfumed gloves arrived from Italy in the luggage of Catherine de Médicis, who introduced this Florentine refinement to the French Court. Gloves appeared in the Guerlain catalog in the 19th century, before being withdrawn at the beginning of the 20th century.
To accompany it in this new adventure, Guerlain has joined forces with a French House with traditional know-how, Agnelle, which possesses the same values of excellence and creation and which, like Guerlain, has been awarded the Entreprise du Patrimoine Vivant label. For Guerlain gloves, the most beautiful, supple of skins, a lamb with a natural, sensual feel, has been selected. All are lined with hand-sewn silk. A work of haute couture that you can guess without seeing, embellished by a few drops of perfume. At one with the hand, perfume becomes a veil over the skin. An object of desire, a coveted hand, fingers brushed, perfume becomes a trace, a trail, a presence that has escaped but is preserved on this forgotten glove or offered as an unforgettable souvenir.
The perfumer’s glove. In 1853, when Pierre-François-Pascal Guerlain created L’Eau de Cologne Impériale, his boutique was on rue de la Paix, in the shadow of the Vendôme column. Family history has it that the bee bottle was born of the founder’s fascination with this monument. He then reproduced the curves of the column’s dome, combining them with imperial bees. This “festoon” motif was later worked into a gilded bronze frieze in the Boutique at 68, avenue des Champs-Elysées, before appearing on Aqua Allegoria bottles. Now, the festoon borders this long amethyst glove in a meticulous lace of tiny jewel-like silver studs on the slightly flared cuff. A glove whose skin is infused with Mitsouko, a fruity, chypre fragrance with notes of peach, spice and undergrowth, which is subtle but not overpowering, giving every woman a unique scent.
The Petite Robe Noire glove is Parisian chic, with its sober lines, impeccable fit and the sublime scent of La Petite Robe Noire extract. Short and décolleté, imbued with Hitchcockian sensuality, it defines the silhouette, giving it a loose, sparkling allure by emphasizing the curve and finesse of the wrist. Its elegance plays on the duality of black and white. Its charm also comes from a small flat bow at the top.
The Perfumer's Glove
5. Silk squares
To amplify the scent of its fragrances, Guerlain has returned to the noble material of silk. Through a collection of 90x90cm silk squares sold exclusively at 68 Champs-Elysées, Guerlain presents its history and that of its legendary fragrances. Dressing the neck, magnifying the head, emphasizing the hips, they offer a thousand ways to sublimate the trail of Guerlain creations. Made in Italy, in the Como region, they combine traditional know-how and modernity. As a perfumer first and foremost, Guerlain has selected a quality of silk that faithfully reproduces its fragrances. The squares can thus be perfumed in a delicate, airy gesture, a ritual full of attentions, at a safe distance from the silk.
The Astre silk square is inspired by the emblem of the House of Guerlain, particularly 68, Champs-Elysées. On this 100% silk twill scarf, it is set in majesty, all subtlety. The festoon, another symbol of the House, is associated with it in a very sophisticated way in the background of the square. This inkjet-printed square is modernized by its plain ice-blue reverse, which contrasts with the front and makes this creation so rare.
The Shalimar Blanc silk square, with its gradations of color and delicate touches of gold, evokes the magnificent love story of Emperor Shah Jahan and Princess Mumtaz Mahal, which inspired Jacques Guerlain to create the terribly oriental and sumptuous Shalimar fragrance in 1921. The Taj Mahal, the famous mausoleum built by the Emperor as a tribute to his sweetheart, takes shape here in the style of Indian miniatures. The lush gardens of Shalimar are home to some of the Guerlinade’s finest materials: rose, jasmine and vanilla. Finally, animals draw our attention in an illusion of relief: the elephants that helped build the Taj Mahal, the peacocks and birds of the Shalimar gardens. Made from silk twill, the scarf is hand-rolled.
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6. “Les Ateliers Parfums”
From now on, young and old, brand lovers and new enthusiasts alike can be introduced to the art of perfume according to Guerlain.
“Petits Guerlain” are introduced to the art of perfumery from the age of 7. Fun workshops are offered on Wednesday afternoons, culminating in a Petit Guerlain apprentice diploma! And because Guerlain fragrances are synonymous with joy, it’s also possible to celebrate a birthday with an olfactory snack.
And for adults… At his Maison at 68, Champs-Elysées, the perfumer unveils the secrets of his creations. Like a magician revealing the secrets of his finest tricks, Guerlain recounts the genesis and inspirations behind his perfumes, shares his olfactory discoveries, and evokes his passion for the raw materials that are his signature. Finally, he introduces each participant to the art of perfumery by accompanying them in the composition of their own fragrance. These special encounters are hosted over the course of an entire day by a Guerlain expert. A wonderful way to enter the world of dreams and try your hand at creation, during an enchanted interlude.
The Organ
L’Institut, Visionnaire de la beauté
At Guerlain, history never stops renewing itself to amaze women. Then as now, they are the brand’s chosen ones and can enjoy an exceptional experience at the Institut Guerlain, located on the top floor of the legendary address at 68 Champs-Elysées. An emblem of Guerlain savoir-faire and a world of permanent creation, the Institut today reinvents itself, retaining the best of the past in a dynamic that is as innovative as it is elegant. The listed decor has been preserved and restored, and integrated into the newly refurbished premises, to take each customer into a world of pure plenitude.
By exploring new territories, the Institut Guerlain today offers new, unique and exclusive care methods in perfect osmosis with the philosophy of the House. An original concept of Tailor-Made Care to bring the most beautiful, the most just and the most dedicated to women and men, in their quest for the perfection of their individuality. A concept born of a long tradition in the Guerlain world of beauty. In 1939, Guerlain inaugurated the world’s first Institut de Beauté with the creative audacity that characterizes the great Maisons.
A cabin of L'Institut

A made to measure treatment

The Secret of Queen Cabin
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Corridor Institute
Restaurant Le 68 Guy Martin
To awaken the nose and excite the taste buds, the House of Guerlain decided to combine two talents, two enthusiasts who excel in the two arts of perfumery and gastronomy. Thierry Wasser has been in charge of Guerlain’s perfume organ since 2008. Guy Martin joined Le Grand Véfour in 1991 and became its owner in 2011.
Both share a respect for their craft and the ancestral Maisons they serve. Both share a love of others and a desire to delight them. Both are committed to preserving the traditions and riches of nature. They could not but come together around a single project, in a single place.
Reservations: 01 45 62 54 10 or [email protected]
The Restaurant

The Restaurant tables
A spectacular creation by Gérard Cholot: Le Vol des Abeilles
It was in 2008 that artist and set designer Gérard Cholot first came across the iconic Guerlain “bee” and decided to give it a new lease of life. The bee, imperial symbol, adorns, static and impassive, the bottle of Eau de Cologne Impériale created in 1853 for Empress Eugénie. It’s time to let her fly, to give her back her life. It was for Guerlain’s 180th anniversary, in 2008, that Gérard Cholot first awakened the beehive. Stylized bees with a 65 cm wingspan, inflated with helium, fly among the guests in a labyrinthine scenography.
In 2013, when the Maison Guerlain entrusted Peter Marino with the project of renovating the legendary Champs Elysées address, it immediately wanted to be able to install a perennial version of the 2008 creation. This monumental work covers the entire 7m height of the new boutique’s immaculate atrium, visible to visitors from the Champs-Elysées. The bees take flight for the second time.

Cette publication est également disponible en : Français (French)

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