As during men’s fashion week, layers of clothing are layered on top of each other: a veritable armor against headline-grabbing burrs. Global warming: penguins walk the Thom Browne catwalk. Once again, the discourse of change is in the spotlight: it worries and awakens fears.
No time to follow Leandra Cohen on Instagram, no time to enchant the American National Anthem. A subjective review of New York’s gold rush.
AW17/18 catwalk highlights
As usual, iconic brands such as Ralph Lauren and Michael Kors were on hand. Ralph Lauren’s inspiration can be summed up as “sophisticated exoticism”. A show that contrasts with the “scarf sweaters” and coats of Michael Kors. Ralph Simon’s arrival at Calvin Klein attracted a great deal of attention. The designer had previously “Clean Calvin”. A trend towards simple lines: minimalism as the quintessence of American style? In any case, this is the card played by The Row, Philip Lim and Narciso Rodriguez. Not to be confused with Philipp Plein or Sies Marjan. Among the emerging names, TIBI is offering a show that has caught the attention of bloggers and stylists. Stay tuned.
The political craze
It hasn’t even been a month since Trump took office. But it’s been more than a month that voices are being raised, that Americans are coming together and protesting. Is it fashion’s duty to take a stand? A vast question. In any case, this season will be marked by the imprint of this election. The entire Calvin Klein show can be read as a statement. At Jeremy Scott, it’s Jesus Super Star, while Public School caps ironically read “Make America Great Again”. Women are as militant as ever: “My Girlfriend is a feminist” by Prabal Gurung.
Point Mannequin, Virgule People
Kendall Jenner and the Hadid sisters were once again at every show. Michael Kors paid tribute to feminine diversity: the icons of the 90s returned, but the most applauded was Ashley Graham’s presence on the catwalk.
On the front row of surprising returns: pop culture rears its head at Tommy Hilfiger with Lady Gaga. Paris Hilton and Madonna shared (or fought) star status at the Philipp Plein show. Marc Jacobs, meanwhile, organized an open-air show, with Hip Hop rhythms on horseback in close proximity to New Yorkers. 
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