Destination London, for the rest of the festivities. The second leg of the Spring-Summer 2016 Fashion Week marathon. But before you put on your trench coat and sing “God save the Queen”, let’s take a look back at the Spring-Summer 2016 shows that just ended in New York. It was a big week, with the public presentation of the Givenchy show, detailed analysis of Gigi Hadid and Kendall Jenner’s looks, and Kayne West’s Yeezy 2 collection, which seems to be having a lot of fun on social networks. In the midst of all this, world-renowned luxury houses, whose every collection is scrutinized, presented their collections. Established names such as Calvin Klein, Ralph Lauren and Tommy Hilfiger seem to have nothing left to prove. So, is it still or top, or is it a loss of momentum for the best-known fashion houses?
An attempt to respond with 12 major brands.
Jason Wu for Hugo Boss
Length, voluptuousness and lightness. Jason Wu combines romanticism and sophistication for an effective collection where charm is in the details (like the fringes). Black and white palette, pierced by pale yellow or prints. Dresses combine a sporty edge with shoulder-baring cuts. Modern elegance from one of Mrs. Obama’s favorite designers.
Givenchy “Believe in power of love
Ricardo Tisci built Givenchy’s success by incorporating hardcore pieces into a couture wardrobe. A collection full of satin, lace and light, floaty fabrics. Airy, precious silhouettes. Declined in black and white, a modern version of femininity fiercely expressed in soft, fragile materials. The open-air show made as much of an impression as the evening, and was undoubtedly the highlight of the week.
Lacoste
Sport is an integral part of Lacoste: it’s undeniable, and obvious to anyone with even the slightest knowledge of the crocodile brand’s history. An Olympic collection, with flag motifs. An “old school” uniform look made graphic by the way the prints have been applied to the pieces. Lacoste remains on its home turf, but digs even deeper.
Alexander Wang
Stiff bangs, rock knitwear, sporty crock top: Alexander Wang redefines the street-wear elements that inspire him. A wardrobe that’s young and hype, active and urban, and which now serves to identify the brand and the designer’s style. A collection that will appeal to fans of the Wang look.
Victoria Beckham
Ever higher: exit “Posh long live the designer. Victoria Beckham offers a sophisticated, colorful collection. Long skirts made less strict with surf prints. Orange lips add a touch of fantasy to looks composed mainly of dresses and skirts.
DVF
Light silk, long gypsy dresses, butterfly print: pink and romantic glamour with a light tan, surrounded by embossed hair. A look that pays homage to the glamour of disco singers, for swaying on the golden beach. Diane Von Furstenburg delivers her interpretation of the spirit of California music festivals. 
Michael Kors
For this season, Micheal Kors takes us by surprise. Renowned for his “beach” looks, he signs a summer in black and white, pierced by red and electric blue. A summer in the city, with long dresses, pea coats and graphic jackets. A few beach elements are still present, but combined with leather accessories or a short turtleneck sweater. Urban but casual. Tailoring but light. Micheal Kors isn’t always where you expect him to be.
Tommy Hilfiger
Tommy Hilfiger takes off for the Mosquito Islands, building a wardrobe that smells of warm sand and comes in Caribbean colors. Reggae style with crochet dresses and bikinis: the designers were inspired by photographs of Bob Marley. A guiding principle, the reggae look is available in wiser or sportier versions. These silhouettes can be worn on all occasions and by all ages.
Marc Jacobs
The show was orchestrated like a movie premiere, but not just any movie. With Marc Jacobs, it’s a journey through the classics of Hollywood cinema. A collection you enter via the red carpet and leave wanting to wear a “Teddy”. In red and different shades of blue, drama queen or rebel looks à la Travolta in Grease, all with Santiags. Yes, this is the USA. A show that shows that fashion isn’t just about fabrics and presentations for buyers. It’s culture!
Ralph Lauren
“French Riviera” for Ralph Lauren. Looks to take to the open seas in navy blue, red and white. Luxurious vacations in jumpsuits, stripes or camel ensembles, accessorized with a light raffia bag. Always impeccable, the Ralph Lauren woman is available in azure and yacht colors.
Calvin Klein
A carefree, minimalist silhouette inspired by German dancer and choreographer Pina Bausch at Calvin Klein. The body is not molded in dresses, pants and long jackets: a loose, casual effect. Dresses that can be slipped on for a chic, casual look after long summer days. Who said the brand’s signature minimalism was repetitive?
Proenza Shouler
The brand that’s getting more and more people together: scrutinized, Jack Mc Collouch and Lazaro Hernandez confirmed their status. In a palette composed mainly of black and white, the dresses multiplied, all featuring modern cut-outs or the use of original materials. Feathers, bows, marked waistlines and fishnets accessorized with colorful earrings.
Flat, in black and white, with an eccentricity inspired by sports prints, flag prints or the look of American cinema. Collections that seem to speak to a trend, where it’s the cut-outs and accessories that signal modernity and a touch of madness in the silhouettes of summer 2016. No, the major fashion houses don’t seem to have run out of creativity!
Cette publication est également disponible en :
