Fashion is in constant need of renewal, and every year plays up the surprise effect with the arrival of new names at the helm of fashion houses, while at the same time provoking major departures, including the very moving last ready-to-wear show for Jean-Paul Gaultier. With interviews with David Koma, Jean-Paul Gaultier and Christophe Lemaire. Fashion is in constant need of renewal, and every year plays up the surprise effect with the arrival of new names at the helm of fashion houses. The buzz at the start of 2014 was unquestionably the arrival of Nicolas Ghesquière as Creative Director at Louis Vuitton. The new energy he has breathed into the company has undoubtedly made him THE designer of the year. Julie de Libran’s move to Sonia Rykiel from Louis Vuitton’s studios made her the talk of the town, especially after a very successful first show in the house’s St Germain des Prés stronghold in Paris. Another notable arrival was David Koma at Mugler, a young English designer who put the sensual woman back at the heart of the collection. In Milan, Rodolfo Paglialunga, also made a success of his first show as Creative Director at Jil Sander, renewing the house’s codes. Last but not least, Giambattista Valli launched his second line in Milan, full of romance and freshness, simply called Giamba. 2014 was also marked by a number of major departures, the most moving of which was Jean-Paul Gaultier’s last ready-to-wear show after 38 years of creation. The couturier will now concentrate solely on haute couture and other personal projects. Marco Zanini leaves Schiaparelli after just one year as artistic director. The year also ended with a number of changes at the major French fashion houses, such as Hermès with the departure of Christophe Lemaire after four years as Artistic Director. There was a surprise at Carven with the departure of Guillaume Henry, who had worked so successfully on the renaissance of the house. He leaves for Nina Ricci, after Peter Copping has left the house to take over as artistic director of Oscar de la Renta. The great American couturier had wanted to choose his successor himself before passing away at the age of 82 at the end of October. The luxury goods world also turns a page with the passing of Yves Carcelle, who was the highly respected president of Louis Vuitton for 22 years.
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