If, season after season, Mihara Yasuhiro has established himself as one of the hottest designers on the scene,
it’s because he never ceases to amaze us with his avant-garde collections, imbued with originality and daring.
His clothes surprise with their modernity and mix of materials, while exuding a certain poetry.
The Japanese designer likes to experiment with unconventional techniques to create something resolutely new and different. If he takes pleasure in deconstructing the male silhouette, it’s to better sketch out the contours of a new, much stronger identity in the image of the modern man in tune with his contradictions.
But that’s not the only reason. Each of Maison Miharayasuhiro ‘s fashion shows is a modern opera, with music punctuating every passage. The designer features Japanese artists (violinist, pianist…) performing live for a captivated audience. It’s always a delight to discover the artist chosen by the creator. This was once again the case.
In a darkened Maison Rouge auditorium, the murmur of the audience is suddenly interrupted by a crystalline guitar note. The room holds its breath as guitarist Miyavi appears in the spotlight. Seemingly alone in the world, he launches into a dynamic, breathtaking monologue with his guitar, illuminated by a spotlight.
For Autumn Winter 2012 – 2013, Mihara Yasuhiro explores the relationship between the speed of information transmission and its effects in a collection so aptly named Insider Outsider. The instantaneity of modern exchanges and more traditional communication techniques are the foundations of a collection based on self-affirmation.
These days, the flow of information is such that anyone can instantly perceive and understand the culture of another. But there are still some people – the Outsiders – who choose to express themselves in a more traditional way, to let their own sensibility speak through their singularity, as Mihara Yasuhiro does.
Miyavi, the samurai guitarist, continues to give rhythm to the parade, alternating between fast and slow phases. The first silhouettes make their appearance, reminding us of the fundamentals of Miharayasuhiro’s style. Superimposed pieces, military details, black and white tartan and slightly short pants make the Miharayasuhiro man an elegant urban man who likes to explore new combinations.
The Japanese designer’s wardrobe is less casual than usual, but nonetheless rich in research and personality. The suits are sober yet comfortable, because the Miharayasuhiro man needs to feel comfortable in his clothes. Quilted sleeveless vests cover the jackets.
But closer inspection reveals the artist’s genius and singularity. Jackets, coats and blousons seem to be reversible with their fabric lining, what the designer callsinside-out, revealing what lies beneath the surface. The collection then takes on a whole new dimension, with silhouettes brimming with details that appear according to the man’s desires and style.
Insignia and braids are skilfully placed in the form of embroidery on the underside of a collar, on a cuff or on the hem of pieces cut from noble fabrics that recall the individuality of the Miharayasuhiro man.
The military theme is sublimated, but once again the designer hits the nail on the head, weaving camouflage costumes of the utmost beauty in kimono silk with bronze highlights, using a technique that dates back over a thousand years. The aviator jacket is transformed into a chic poncho, and his taste for deconstruction-reconstruction is once again evident.
And because men are not uniform, a few feminine silhouettes have slipped into this collection, long, elegant, almost spectral in their unexpectedness. Once again, the blend of Japanese and European influences makes itself felt. The pants are ultra-wide, the dress the ultimate in elegance, and the silhouette remains slender.
For Autumn Winter 2012, 2013 Mihara Yasuhiro has created a collection that is an expression of modern military style. Original and quirky, it nevertheless gives pride of place to tradition through the use of a Japanese silk fabric with changing reflections. In a world that moves too fast, that assimilates everything too quickly, Miharayasuhiro remains a brand that assumes its singularity through a certain poetry of fashion. And all to music.
Photo credit: with the courtesy of Miharayasuhiro
Marie-Odile Radom
Cette publication est également disponible en : Français (French)
