Autumn-Winter 2012-2013 Collection
Paris in the 70s, Sonia, a redheaded muse with the soul of a poet, draped in her big, bubbly coats. Her casual allure, her out-of-code, out-of-fashion chic…. This is the inspiration for the collection. A blend of Parisian nonchalance and the hijacking of classics can be seen in this wardrobe of familiar yet surprising pieces. Those beautiful pants, that impeccable white shirt, that little sweater that hugs the body, we rediscover them, twisted and offbeat, the fruit of subtle experimentation that plays on the association of opposites. The Rykiel woman’s spirit of contradiction is her right, her strength, her charm.
Wrap-around coats like structured plaids are cut from soft, flowing double-faced wool, belted with patent leather. Opulent sheepskin cocoons are micro-perforated and lined with pearl satin. Short jackets, streamlined or more sporty, skim the waistband of long, high-waisted, shapely 7/8th pants and slip over a vaporous blouse of ambiguous chic. With her hands in her pockets, the Rykiel woman assumes her casual Parisian look. Instead of pants, she sometimes prefers skirts, unreasonably slit or falling below the knee, to cultivate mystery.
Knitwear multiplies effects. As if shrunken or beautifully perforated, it seems to be worn a thousand times like a skin talisman. Slightly baroque, it is also enlivened by motifs borrowed from the decorative Art Nouveau fabrics of the Wiener Werkstätte. Steamy dresses adorned with falsely random smocks float on the skin like a halo. More graphic, trompe l’œil shirt dresses play on contrasting tones and materials, or fade in and out like an abstract film shot in Saint Germain-des-Près.
The timeless black-and-white duo is matched by a poetic, sensitive palette of time-worn pastels, a cameo of greige or cookie, enhanced by orange notes. Geometric and abundant, the prints fool the eye. The Rykiel stripe becomes an abstract line, dissolved in a buttercup or flame gradient.
Materials play on contrasts. Double-faced or tweed wool, fluffy bouclette knits and velvety Japanese jerseys mingle with cloudy chiffons, matte or lacquered silks and translucent knits. They share a familiar sensuality found in animal touches: astrakhan-style goat, viselle linings or perforated sheepskin.
Set on lightly-architected platforms, glazed leather shoes dressed in true faux blacks (wine lees, deep green, navy) are perfect for the tarmac. On leather handles draped like a scarf, envelope- or satchel-shaped bags impose their neo-classical lines, contradicted by an erotic-surrealist jewel detail in the shape of a breast. Imagined by Californian jewelry designer Carly Margolis, it also adds a quirky, symbolic touch to belts, necklaces and earrings. A signature of the new Demoiselle line.
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