The Côte Chalonnaise has never sought to rival the Côte d’Or. Instead, it has preferred to produce, on less-publicized clay-based terroirs, structured Pinot Noirs that age without anyone keeping an eye on them. The 2023 vintage from Château de Chamirey, from the “Clos du Roi” classified vineyard, clearly illustrates the logic behind this choice.
The estate has been owned by the Devillard family since 1934. Of the 37 hectares currently managed by Amaury and Aurore Devillard, about half are classified as Premier Cru—a notable proportion for an appellation still undervalued by the markets. The Clos du Roi vineyard covers 3.3 hectares. The soil there is predominantly clay, which slows drainage, concentrates the black fruit aromas, and gives the tannins a slightly tight texture that requires time to develop.
The grapes are harvested by hand, sorted, and destemmed. The estate waits for optimal ripeness before harvesting—a decision that may seem obvious but, with vines averaging 35 years of age, requires a precise assessment of the timing depending on the vintage.
Forestry: The Logic of Partial Thinning
Twelve months in barrels, 25% of which are new oak. Then three months in tanks. This ratio is a deliberate choice: the new oak provides structure without overwhelming the fruit. The final aging in tanks tightens the wine and preserves its freshness. For the 2023 vintage—a year marked in Burgundy by irregular rainfall that favored the winemakers most attentive to ripeness—this aging sequence yields a result that is recognizable by its color even before tasting: a dense ruby hue that has not yet shifted toward garnet.
The nose reveals aromas of blackberry and blackcurrant, with slightly peppery, spicy notes. On the palate, the licorice-like finish indicates well-ripened tannins—neither green nor candied.
The “Clos du Roi” climat: A Premier Cru of the Mercurey appellation, the Clos du Roi is one of the few climats in the Côte Chalonnaise to benefit from an exposure and soil structure distinctive enough to justify its classification. Clay predominates here over calcareous silt. Estate starting price: 40 euros.
At 40 euros ex-estate, this Mercurey offers a value for money that the Côte d’Or hasn’t been able to match at this level for several years. The question for future vintages remains one of volume: with 3.3 hectares and production limited by unpredictable weather, the 2023 Clos du Roi will be hard to come by in two years.
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