In 2008, under the impetus of Olga Sorokina, Maison Irfé was reborn. Recapturing the spirit of the house’s past, a past steeped in history, and bringing it into the present day: a real challenge. Between Russian revolts and imperial marriages, Maison Irfé was founded in Paris in 1924 by two aristocrats: Félix Youssoupoff and Irina Romanoff (niece of Tsar Nicholas II). Original cuts, sporty models, avant-garde play on androgyny, the fragrance of legends and fashion shows that ended in balls: the house made its mark on fashion history.
A heavy heritage: a designer with a clear vision, a defined objective was needed to avoid perishing under the weight of this house. Olga Sorokina, with the blessing of Prince Youssoupoff’s granddaughter, raised Irfé from the ashes, or rather, “as if Irfé had never stopped”. Expectedly, she seems to be fulfilling her mission brilliantly, with even the redoubtable Suzy Menkes hailing the first collection.
With a modern impulse to invent a practical wardrobe, the designer creates models that can be adapted to everyday life and blended into the wardrobe of a sexy yet perfectly elevated woman. This subtle distinction is achieved by introducing elements that recall the spirit of Russian aristocracy.
For this new “Prêt à Couture” collection, the designer calls on Jose Enrique Ona Selfa, ex-Loewe designer. A graphic, festive atmosphere. Russian aristocracy, with fur coats, short shiny skirts and airy veils, affronts the patern of officer suits. Epaulets and buttons recall officer jackets, now subject only to the reign of night.
The designer claims to have been inspired by the modern motifs of Malevich and Rothko, and mixes couture and ready-to-wear materials. Hence the collection’s deliberately hybrid identity. A gesture reminiscent of the modernism inspired by Maison Irfé in its day. A tradition of modernity and innovation, brilliantly maintained.
Original concept, new collaboration, redesign of feather embroidery and officer jackets, the 2014 version of Irfé takes the best of the legendary house’s spirit, without getting bogged down. A master stroke.
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