Leflaive box: the chardonnay of Puligny-Montrachet in Oger

by PASCAL IAKOVOU
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A 2022 Puligny-Montrachet and two blanc de blancs champagnes, brought together in a wooden box available from October 2026. The Leflaive family offers a comparison whose composition says more than its title.

The box holds three 75 cl bottles and one grape variety, chardonnay, read across two regions. The two houses that sign it belong to the same family. Olivier Leflaive is based in Puligny-Montrachet, in the Côte de Beaune, and says it has been recognised for more than forty years for its Burgundy wines. Valentin Leflaive, created in 2015, produces champagne in Oger, in the heart of the Côte des Blancs.

The Burgundy wine is the Puligny-Montrachet 2022 from Olivier Leflaive, a cuvée that brings together 24 climats of the appellation. The two champagnes are extra-brut blanc de blancs, as their labels indicate. Sigma |20|4.0 combines seven crus of the Côte des Blancs, including 76% grands crus. Oger Les Baudures |20|4.0 comes from a single plot, Les Baudures, in the Oger grand cru, and the House describes it as a confidential single-plot cuvée.

The split is more asymmetric than an opposition between two terroirs suggests. Two of the three bottles are blends from multiple places: 24 climats for the first, seven crus for the second. The third comes from a single lieu-dit. The box thus sets blend against plot as much as Burgundy against Champagne.

The family also suggests a tasting order: Sigma first, which it describes as vibrant and luminous, then Oger Les Baudures, more precise and more intense, and finally the Puligny-Montrachet, ample, silky and deep. The still wine therefore comes last. These descriptors are the House’s own, as are the finesse and tension it attributes to the Oger chardonnay.

One limit lies in what the box compares. The Puligny-Montrachet carries a vintage, 2022. For the two champagnes, the designation does not give the year they come from. What the comparison illuminates is therefore origin and the way a cuvée is composed, not the effect of a year on the same grape variety.

The face-to-face that the box organises best is that of blend and plot: two cuvées from several places, one from a single place. The region comes second.

The box: 3 × 75 cl, in a wooden case. Recommended retail price: €270 incl. tax. Available in France from Millésima from October 2026.

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