Australian creative duo Mario-Luca Carlucci and Peter Stratéas, who debuted under their own label in 2012, presented their men’s spring-summer 2017 collection at Milan Fashion Week.
These two young designers have already won acclaim for the architecture of their garments, the detail of their finishes and the high quality of their fabrics. Both work to create innovative fabrics, and in particular use woven Merino wool, a fiber that offers a wide range of creative possibilities.
The originality of this collection lies in the combination of sportswear and luxury couture. The key words are superimpositions, minimalism tinged with sophisticated details, destructured and asymmetrical cuts. Garments are used in unusual ways. For example, the long, patterned surcoat worn knotted over pants as an apron tied around the hips.
They invented a new masculine silhouette where genders blurred, masculine and feminine codes disappeared. The preferred colors were white, black, blue and gray, with a few models in bright yellow, mustard yellow and red tartan. The show featured a series of relaxed silhouettes, with oversized waists, long coats, zip-up jackets, long tunics, long sweaters and ultra-long sleeves, worn on their own or over pants or Bermuda shorts.
The blue and white striped shirt is unisex, worn over a black vinyl dress or asymmetrically over pants, with one side tucked into the waistband and the other falling over the front of the pants. Note the double cuff bands, giving the impression of two sleeves worn one on top of the other. The Jacquard weave plays an important role, and can also be worn with a glossy black vinyl tunic for both men and women.
Stratéas and Carlucci are shaking things up and creating new dress codes. Clothes are no longer masculine or feminine, but are available in identical versions for both genders. Completely in tune with the times!
Visual by Claire Guillon.
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