The Dior Homme show by Kris Van Assche, held last June at Versailles, had everyone in agreement, at least on one point: the scenography was breathtaking. A bed of rosebushes decorated the catwalk, in keeping with the spirit of Christian Dior’s love of flowers. A tribute that Raf Simons also pays in his women’s shows.
Whether it’s the careful staging, playing with the house’s codes, or the architecture combining classic grandeur and modern design of the boutiques (such as the St Tropez boutique), the presentation of the latest collection is done in particular via an online look book, which goes into detail on the different pieces of the fashion show. It’s an opportunity to discover – or rediscover – exactly how this latest men’s collection is made.
For this Summer 2016 season, Kris Van Assche proposed to rediscover different pieces that make up the men’s wardrobe, the various classics, and to confront them in order to give birth to a new type of elegance, a modern elegance .
As the models walk the runway, a suit base that reflects the codes of the “working boy” takes center stage. Suits with jackets, straight or slim-fitting pants, and a tie – the fashion show’s common thread. Simple, effective. Modern?
Gradually, elements of a sportier, more military wardrobe betray the rigor of the work uniform: sneakers, zippers, more pockets on pants. Then come anoraks, bombers and crocodile jackets, illuminating the black/white/navy-blue palette with orange or red. The colors seemed to be holding back, already spilling over into the lapels of suit jackets and shirts to explode – with an orange crocodile jacket in particular.
Gradually, the work uniform has lost its wisdom and monotony thanks to the codes of the military uniform. Paradoxically, camouflage prints and the all-terrain, adventurous spirit of this rigid universe are taking the suit and tie out of fashion, creating new combinations.
“In every disorder, there is a secret order” is Kris Van Assche’s moto when he talks about this collection. Yet the myths of the men’s wardrobe seem to find their place and don’t scatter. So the gamble paid off?
In any case, all the pieces are detailed in this lookbook, and if the show and its scenography didn’t convince you, the precious materials and precise cuts will enchant you, and take us back to the gardens of dreams, a garden filled with roses.
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