Self-deprecation: the ability or fact of laughing at oneself. This definition was most useful when we discovered Lucien Pellat-Finet‘s new Spring-Summer 2015 collection this morning. The man who was dubbed King of Cashmere by the Americans, unveiled a collection that pushes ever harder towards humor and playfulness, while perpetuating witty cultural references.
The Japan-loving designer’s influences only seem to grow in profusion year after year, so that the present collection demonstrates a rare eclecticism. Multiculturalism really comes into its own. The usual Japanese and French influences rub shoulders with a Hawaiian and Californian spirit.
Classic sweaters and shirts in black, gray, shades of blue and sailboats with the emblematic skull and crossbones mingle with pink sarongs with cannabis leaves, light-colored cashmeres featuring skeletons surfing a wave drawn à la Takashi Murakami, or simple T-shirts with the Hollywood logo that reads “Holyweed”. Rhinestones, camouflage fabric, Hawaiian flowers, tie-and-die Bermuda shorts… Monsieur Pellat Finet is not afraid of the eyes.
The famous skull and crossbones have been given a well-deserved second wind: they have been meticulously reworked and now appear illuminated in gay pride colors, or with Basquiat’s skull and crossbones topped with Warhol’s white mane. A partnership between the Basquiat estate and the designer was established this year, so Lucien Pellat-Finet was also able to use the skull created by the artist himself on a selection of sweaters and shirts.
The play of patterns has not distracted the creations from the quality of the materials. All pieces are made from 100% cashmere, or from cotton for lighter pieces. Fabrics and garments are made exclusively in Japan and Italy.
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