DIOR, La Couture Collection Caprice
To create jewelry ex nihilo at Dior, Victoire de Castellane imagined that it had always existed.
In fact, jewelry has almost always existed at Dior. As early as his second collection, the winter 1947 Corolle line, the couturier incorporated them into the silhouettes of his runway shows, speaking of “Rivières de diamant, necklaces of richly twisted motifs, adorned with pear-shaped pearls.” Of course, the stones are glass, and “richly” applies only to the aesthetics of the jewel, not to the metal it’s made of. This is what we call “couture jewelry”. They are worn like fashion accessories. Necklaces are voluminous, lined with colored stones that add sparkle to the face. Christian Dior’s collections are a clear testimony to his jewelry aesthetic, a veritable manifesto. Transposed and interpreted in the world of jewelry, this manifesto continues to be written in diamond, ruby, emerald, sapphire, tourmaline, spinel, morganite or aquamarine. As always at Dior, jewelry is also a tribute to excellence in craftsmanship and attention to detail. The incredible craftsmanship of the Parisian workshops is at the service of radical thinking, an aesthetic to the extreme, a true creative vision. However, the colors, volumes, accumulations and excesses were already there, establishing an artistic dialogue between Christian Dior and Victoire de Castellane that transcends time and technique.
At Dior Joaillerie, all the codes and values of the House, and of couture in general, are summoned. After Mitza and the sensual jungle print that was the signature of Christian Dior’s muse, Victoire de Castellane imagined Oui, a calligraphic tribute to happiness and love, before celebrating these precious ties once again in the My Dior collection, revisiting the emblematic cane motif that adorns the seats of Napoleon III chairs at fashion shows. The details that adorn the House’s couture creations also inspire the designer: bows and ribbons are adorned with diamonds and precious stones in the Caprice, Diorama précieuse, Tralala, Provocante and Favorite collections, while Cygne suggests the delicate down of feathers in precious stones
. Finally, the ultimate encounter between haute couture and haute joaillerie, the ArchiDior collection pays homage to the early collections of Christian Dior, who designed his dresses and suits as an architect. Belts are made of diamonds, petticoats are set with rubies, the supple movement of fabrics and ribbons is recreated in precious metal… The idea of the lining of a garment is also present, with
particular care given to even the invisible parts of the jewel.
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