Peau d’Ane
told by
Van Cleef & Arpels
The new Van Cleef & Arpels Haute Joaillerie collection is inspired by Jacques Demy’s traditional fairy tale Peau d’Ane.
“Peau d’Âne” as told by Van Cleef & Arpels
Paying tribute to the story of this young princess, the House expresses some of its favorite themes: enchantment and grace. Stones of character in exceptional lots, original cameos conveying impalpable nuances and bewitching stone cuts transport the viewer to the land of love, fairies and magic.
Over the decades, the House has perpetuated the art of enchantment begun in the 1940s, with the creation of fairy clips.
The magic of stones
Van Cleef & Arpels makes the most of its expertise in gems: diamonds, fine and hard stones, pearls and coral… reflect the range of feelings as much as the different atmospheres of the story. The love suggested by the intensity of a ruby or pink sapphire of over 28 carats is also embodied in the green of the emerald, symbol of the romance between the prince and princess.
Through their purity, intensity or cut, the stones meticulously chosen by Van Cleef & Arpels gemologists convey a true emotion.
The journey into the world of Peau d’Ane is made up of three stops, each of which refers to an important moment in the princely story.
Childhood at the château.
In the tranquility of an enchanted castle, a princess grows up,
White gold, round, baguette-cut and half-moon-cut diamonds, baguette-cut emeralds, oval and briolette-cut pink and violet sapphires, round and baguette-cut sapphires, one 39.85-carat oval emerald (origin: Brazil).
In the center, a bewitching oval-cut Brazilian emerald weighs over 39 carats. A true “Pierre de Caractère”, it is distinguished by its unique bluish-green color, giving it that extra touch of soul so dear to the Maison. Punctuated by airy briolettes, the gradation of blue to violet sapphires underscores the sinuous movement of diamond-set alleys.
Clip Fée des Lilas
White gold, rose gold, round, pear-cut and rose-cut diamonds, grey diamonds, pink and violet spinels, pink and violet sapphires.
Inspired by the Lilac Fairy, this clip expresses the kindness and benevolence of Peau d’Âne‘s godmother. Her silhouette is in the tradition of the fairy clips created by Van Cleef & Arpels. The color of magic, violet rubs shoulders with pink and white in a play of light. The different settings (beaded for the dress, closed for the fairy’s headdress, clawed for the wand) accentuate the refinement of the ensemble, while underlining the softness of the cameo of stones.
Clip Robe Couleur du Temps
White gold, round and rose-cut diamonds, turquoise, Paraíba tourmalines, green garnets.
The Color of Time Dress is one of the prodigious gifts given to Peau d’Âne by the king. Its impalpable color, rivaling “the most beautiful blue of the Empyrean “*, is expressed here in a cameo of Paraíba tourmalines, pale green garnets and diamonds. The swirls of diamonds recreate the lightness of the sky while emphasizing the volume of the dress. The ultimate refinement, the turquoise fan and sleeves have been meticulously sculpted by the lapidary to match the design of the piece.
Clip Robe Couleur de la Lune
White gold, round and rose-cut diamonds, baguette-cut sapphires, blue spinels, blue and violet tanzanites, blue and violet sapphires.
The “vivid clarity “* of the lunar star and diamond stars illuminate a night sky of spinels, tanzanites and sapphires. This delicate gradation of hues, from the deepest to the most luminous, envelops the princess in an aura of mystery.
Clip Robe Couleur du Soleil
White gold, yellow gold, round, oval and rose-cut diamonds, spessartite garnets, tourmalines and yellow sapphires, yellow diamonds.
The mix of tourmalines, sapphires and yellow diamonds creates a subtle gradation that evens out the brightness of the sun. The precious fabric, admirable for its undulating movement, reveals the silhouette of the princess, sculpted in wax and then cast in gold.
Couleur du Temps Dress Set
White gold, round, baguette-cut and navette-cut diamonds, round tourmalines, pear-cut sapphires, 12 pear-cut aquamarines totaling 129.87 carats.
White gold, round, navette-cut and pear-cut diamonds, round tourmalines, pear-cut sapphires, 2 pear-cut aquamarines totaling 24.13 carats.
White gold, round diamonds, pear-cut sapphires, round tourmalines, a 9.88-carat navette-cut aquamarine.
Fifteen crystal-clear aquamarines have been brought together by VanCleef & Arpels to pay tribute to the beautiful blue dress. Combined with sapphires and tourmalines, these stones recreate the hues of the Robe Couleur du Temps offered by the king to his daughter. The pear-cut gemstones breathe softness and femininity into the creations.
Worthy of the most extraordinary fairy-tale jewels, this set is also distinguished by the different ways in which it can be worn. Thanks to their detachable motifs, the necklace and earrings can be transformed at will, in the tradition of the Maison’s transformable pieces.
Ring Amour Amour
White gold, round, pear-cut and troïdia-cut diamonds, Paraíba tourmalines, violet spinels, a 28.06-carat cabochon-cut emerald (origin: Zambia).
The enchanted forest
Leaving the castle at first light, Peau d’Âne fled into the depths of the forest, where hinds, fawns and birds were awakening.
Wonderful Forest clip
White gold, yellow gold, round, pear-cut and princess-cut diamonds, yellow diamonds, pink and violet sapphires, emeralds.
Composed in the style of a jewel painting, this clip depicts the farmhouse where Peau d’Âne is welcomed after fleeing her father’s kingdom.
Clip Piou-Piou
White gold, rose gold, round and baguette-cut diamonds, red and pink coral balls, spessartite garnets, cabochon-cut blue sapphires, violet and pink sapphires.
The Piou-Piou clip features two birds on a branch of diamonds, decorated with coral berries.
Chemin royal necklace
White gold, round, square, baguette, briolette and pear-cut diamonds.
A multitude of diamonds form a sparkling collar, symbolizing the path taken by Peau d’Âne to escape her father’s castle and reach the forest.
Clip Peau d’âne
White gold, rose gold, round, square, pear-cut and rose-cut diamonds, pink and white diamonds.
The Peau d’âne clip shows the princess escaping into the forest. Dressed in her pelisse, she appears surrounded by animals. Her dress, embroidered with diamonds of different sizes, combines the delicacy of white, gray and pink to suggest the young girl’s innocence.
Astre de la Nuit ring
White gold, lapis lazuli, onyx, diamonds, tanzanites, a 5.75-carat oval DIF type 2A diamond.
The exceptional 5.75-carat diamond, DIF and type 2A (the purest chemically), lights up the night sky of this ring. Visible from above, the crescent moon rubs shoulders with mysterious diamond and tanzanite stars, while intense blue lapis lazuli and deep black onyx streak the setting. Meticulously reworked with curves and relief, this alternation helps recreate the dreamlike atmosphere of a moonlit landscape.
Magic wand
White gold, rose gold, round and baguette-cut diamonds, pink, violet and blue sapphires, onyx, one 3.64-carat oval violet sapphire (origin: Madagascar).
Around a 3.64-carat violet sapphire, diamonds and colored sapphires blossom into a luminous halo, evoking the magic of fairy tales. This piece pays tribute to Peau d’Âne’s godmother, the Lilac Fairy, who entrusted her young protégée with her magic wand.
Love Cake Ring
White gold, yellow gold, round diamonds, gradation of yellow to brown diamonds, a 4.48-carat emerald-cut emerald (origin: Zambia).
Voluminous and delicious, this ring refers to one of the key episodes in the tale of Peau d’Âne.
Throughout the collection, the emerald is celebrated as the symbol of romance. Here, a 4.48-carat stone crowns a generous spiral of diamonds whose gradation from white to brown evokes the flavors of cake, while revealing the intensity of green. This particularly complex structure, intimately blending two golds, testifies to the expertise of the Mains d’Or craftsmen of the Van Cleef & Arpels Haute Joaillerie workshops.
Enchanted Mirror necklace and detachable clip
White gold, round and baguette-cut diamonds, cabochon-cut emeralds, round, cabochon-cut and calibrated sapphires, white cultured pearls, emerald balls totaling 381.04 carats (origin: Afghanistan), an octagonal sapphire totaling 24.77 carats (origin: Burma).
Inspired by the mirror Peau d’Âne takes with her as she flees, the Miroir enchanté necklace features a 24.77-carat Burmese sapphire in a deep, dense blue. The heart of the piece, composed of a detachable clip-on motif, shimmers with intensity among cultured pearls, gathered in a pompom, and more than 6,500 emerald balls. The latter required years of pairing and meticulous threading to form generous, perfectly regular twists. The octagonal cut, very rare for a sapphire, is enhanced by the asymmetrical lines of surrounding diamonds, giving the necklace movement and sparkle.
The Happy Wedding
The wedding date was soon announced, and guests flocked in droves to celebrate the happy union.
Red Prince clip
White gold, rose gold, pink and violet sapphires, red coral, round, pear-cut and rose-cut diamonds, a 2.25-carat emerald (origin: Brazil).
Combining gold, gemstones and vermilion coral, the dress required highly precise sculpting, cutting and setting, a testament to the excellence of the Maison. On the verge of reuniting with his bride, the prince holds a 2.25-carat emerald in front of his heart, in honor of the ring that brought them together.
Ear motifs Promise of love
Promesse d’amour earrings: white gold, pink gold, round diamonds, round sapphires, 2 oval pink sapphires totaling 15.00 carats (origin: Madagascar).
An evocation of the union between the Prince and Peau d’Âne, the Promesse d’amour ring and earrings elegantly combine blue and pink sapphires. The choice of colors, referring to the two kingdoms represented, also takes on another symbolism: that of fidelity and love.
Astre of Light long necklace
White gold, yellow gold, round, baguette-cut and pear-cut diamonds, round, baguette-cut and pear-cut yellow sapphires, spessartite garnets, a 20.68-carat oval yellow sapphire (origin: Sri Lanka), white cultured pearls.
The Astre de Lumière sautoir combines the brilliance of a 20.68-carat yellow sapphire with the lustre of cultured pearls. The stone is set off by a precious spiral, creating an impression of movement. Thanks to meticulous craftsmanship, this detachable motif can be worn in two different ways: on its own as a clip, or perfectly integrated into the architecture of the sautoir.
Oriental Gift Ring
White gold, rose gold, round and pear-cut diamonds, turquoise, coral, cabochon-cut emeralds, a 5.15-carat oval violet sapphire (origin: Sri Lanka).
With the Cadeau d’Orient ring, Van Cleef & Arpels has imagined the precious gifts offered to spouses. All the diversity of their riches is represented through the combination of fine and hard gemstones. The luminous blue of sculpted turquoise resonates with a bewitching 5.15-carat violet sapphire, while coral and emeralds respond to each other in joyous notes of color.
These astonishing interplays of materials revive the chromatic audacity of the House from the 1960s onwards, influenced by the Orient.
Pour toujours ring
Pink gold, round, pear-cut and baguette-cut diamonds, pink diamonds, a 28.96-carat cushion-cut pink sapphire (origin: Sri Lanka).
The pink sapphire in the Pour toujours ring shines as brightly as the love between prince and princess. Of a particularly deep color and exceptional weight (28.96 carats), this characterful stone is enhanced by an Indian-inspired setting. Here, pink diamonds and white diamonds of different cuts follow one another on a multi-level structure, echoing the undulating lines of the Cashmere motifs. An integral part of the House’s heritage, this theme is notably inherited from the Indian influence expressed in Van Cleef & Arpels creations from the 1950s onwards.
With the “Peau d’Ane” collection, Van Cleef & Arpels asserts its position as a leading jeweller with unique expertise.
Olivia Baranes
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