Belgium is unquestionably a land where fashion has carved out a special place for itself. The notion of style is primordial and experimental. The connection between Art and Fashion is blatantly obvious here, with both feeding off each other.
Two poles coexist, Brussels and Antwerp. Each has its own school: La Cambre in Brussels, the Fashion Institute in Antwerp. Both are internationally renowned, attracting students from all over the world. During their studies, their aesthetic and creative senses are emphasized. They are constantly encouraged and pushed to the limit. Every year, an incredible show demonstrates the value of this libertarian education.
The public discovers radically atypical and promising young designers.
Many of them have seen their talent recognized by professionals and the public alike.
This creative emulation can be felt in both cities. Concept stores, specific stores, each has a real interest. It’s obvious that we need to develop a tourist itinerary and envisage the art of shopping in these places.
Brussels is a particularly dynamic city, thanks to the presence of the local government. Fashion benefits from this invigorating atmosphere, with dedicated museums and private exhibition spaces. In February, the Espace ING aptly evoked the creative spirit of YSL, while the Verrière or Espace Hermès, dedicated to contemporary creation, reveals a different perception of art and fashion. MAD Brussels, the Mode and Design Center, surprises with its initiatives. In June, it piloted an incredible event, Madifesto (Mad Brussels Fashion Festival).
For this first edition, the aim was to showcase fashion, with a focus on the work of a number of young designers, as well as the various trades involved in fashion. Photographers, make-up artists and others were able to showcase their approach through a variety of exhibitions.
One, La Cambre Mode, showcased the work of 1st and 2nd year Masters students. The work of these young designers, barely out of La Cambre, testifies to their professionalism.
The other, Mad, Made, Made-up, Make-up at the Centrale for Contemporary Art, showcased the work of a number of fashion photographers. The space also hosted performances and workshops. Inaugurated by a happening, the exhibition confirmed this involvement of Art. The performer, Juriji der Klee, captivated attention with his atypical singing and allure.
At the same time, a number of sites attracted visitors. Stijl is one of them. The concept was created by Sonja Noël. She has always been at the forefront of Belgian creation. Sonya was one of the first to support the Antwerp 6 and other designers. Passionate about promoting Belgian and international talent, she never hesitates to get involved. In a way, she plays the role of advisor and sponsor. Raf Simons, Jean-Paul Lespagnard, Gustavo Lins, Haider Ackermann and others feature in her selection.
Attentive to new ideological trends, she opened a second boutique, Haleluja, in 2010.
Its aim is to present eco-friendly or extremely non-industrial fashion. Bruno Pieters’ range, Honest By, and Sofia d’Hoore’s creations, have a special place here.
Hunting and Collecting is a newer venue, but also a concept store. Cédric Charlier, Givenchy, Kitsuné, Christophe Lemaire, Kenzo and others are referenced here. The place hosted a presentation by Cédric Charlier during Madifesto.
In a completely different, vintage spirit, another boutique deserves real attention, Gabriele.
An unusual enclave, the square houses pieces from the turn of the century to the eighties. Particular attention is paid to the Sixties. Some of the pieces are by top designers such as Yves St Laurent. The refined, feminine setting reflects the personality of the owner, Gabriele Wolf. Venturing here means rediscovering the joy of discovering exciting dresses and accessories. An undeniable strength, the very beautiful pieces from the 50s and 60s.
What’s more, every accessory and garment is sold in excellent condition.
Isabelle Bajart, focuses more on the 70s and 80s. Vintage is also a quality feature.
Of particular note is a large collection of belts and other leather accessories (seventies boots, etc.).
Somewhere between vintage and contemporary, Mademoiselle François recreates pieces with a vintage feel.
The designer offers superb, feminine shoe designs at very reasonable prices. The details are very delicate, with little buttons for fastenings, ornaments for certain models, etc…
To perfect this approach, stockings and tights are sold in packaging imitating those of the 40s or 50s. A men’s section allows these gentlemen to perfect their sense of elegance.
An hour and a half away, Antwerp offers a very nice alternative. A peaceful city on the banks of the Scheldt, it has preserved the achievements of its opulent Renaissance. An incredible mix of cultures and influences, it encapsulates the many ingredients necessary for creativity. Fashion Institute end-of-year show
From September 8, 2013, the Royal Academy of Fine Arts will be celebrating its 350th anniversary and the 50th anniversary of its fashion department.
To this end, exhibitions will be held at Le Mas and Le Momu, and street art installations will transform the city.
The Museum Aan de Stroom wants to ‘question’ Art, to confront periods and feelings. Walter Von Beirendonck, director of the fashion department at the Royal Academy, has worked with P. Huvenne, director of the Mas, to organize a truly transgenerational confrontation. Jacob Jordaens and Vincent Van Gogh will rub shoulders with more recent students such as Fred Bervoets and Panamarenko. An interior scenography will initiate an incredible journey.
In Happy Birthday Dear Académie, Momu, Antwerp’s fashion museum, will reveal 50 years of fashion department, its history and its approach to teaching. Behind the scenes, through various themes (fashion graphics, end-of-year fashion shows, the Antwerp 6…), the soul of this institution will be laid bare. To be enjoyed from September 8 to February 16, 2014.
At the end-of-year show, the eccentricity and dexterity of the students is obvious.
Headed by Walter Van Beirendonck, the school achieves a high level of excellence and encourages students to consider all their possibilities. Partnerships are developed with professionals, giving visibility to this young creation. Eddy Michiels and Geert Bruloot, creators of the Coccodrillo concept store, believe in eternal possibilities. Each year, they present a Coccodrillo Award to a young designer whose shoes are daring. This year, the prize went to Pierre Renaux.
It has enabled him to receive some funding and to display his exclusive shoe model in the window of the famous boutique. There, they can be noticed by the press and fashion professionals present in the city in June.
This final-year student at the Fashion Institute is pleasantly surprising. He was also presented with the Momu Award, which recognizes a student’s atypical and innovative graphic sense. An interview gave us an insight into his creative sense. Acerbic, extreme, he favors the conceptual. He has a perfect sense of paradox and derision. His take on fashion is categorical and refreshing.
In Antwerp, like Cocorillo, other boutiques are also awarding prizes. Ra, this open-space space created by the duo Anna Kushnerova and Romain Brou, has been making its presence felt since 2009, when it was first opened. The space houses a concept store, gallery, restaurant and bookshop. The spirit here is to encourage the co-relation of art and fashion. Through their prize, Ra Académie d’Anvers , they highlight the talent of a student of their choice. This summer, they exhibited Ehssan Morshed Sefat in their Paris boutique.
The French, the Parisians, like to come and discover a different kind of fashion in Belgium. Concept-stores and speciality boutiques abound, unusual and captivating. An escapade in these parts becomes an excellent alternative to a certain Parisian conformism…
Brussels
La CAMBRE, www.lacambre.be
The MAD, www.madbrussels.be
Fondation d’Entreprise Hermès, La Verrière, 50 Bd Waterloo, 1000 Brussels
www.fondationdentreprisehermes.org/Savoir-faire-et-creation
STIJL, 74 Rue Antoine Dansaert, 1000 Brussels
www.stijl.be
HALELUJA, 6 Place Du Nouveau Marché aux Grains, 1000 Brussels
www.haleluja.be
HUNTING AND COLLECTING, 17 Rue Des Chartreux, 1000 Brussels
www.huntingandcollecting.com
GABRIELE Vintage, 27 Rue Des Chartreux, 1000 Brussels
www.gabrielevintage.com
ISABELLE BAJART, 25 Rue Des Chartreux, 1000 Brussels
www.isabellebajart.com/
MADEMOISELLE FRANÇOIS, 4 Rue Des teinturiers, 1000 Brussels
Antwerp
ROYALE ACADEMIE, Blindestraat 7, 2000 Antwerp
www.antwerp-fashion.be/
MOMU, Nationalstraat 28, 2000 Antwerp
www.momu.be/
COCCODRILLO
Coccodrillo men’s boutique, Schuttershofstraat 8, 2000 Antwerp Coccodrillo women’s boutique, Schuttershofstraat 9, 2000 Antwerp
www.coccodrillo.be
Photo credits: Le Mad, Espace Ing, Isabelle Bajart, Royal Academy of Antwerp, Sofia LAFAYE.
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