Poiray: Ma Première turns guilloché into a gesture of light

by PASCAL IAKOVOU
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Poiray continues the story of Ma Première with an almost imperceptible shift: the dial adopts a radiating guilloché, whose lines run from the centre to the indexes. In a watch that has been the house’s signature since the 1980s, the decoration is not a mere surface. It acts on the way the model catches the light and takes its place between watchmaking and jewellery.

The dial as relief

The guilloché gives the dial a depth that varies with the movement of the wrist. Poiray describes it as a play of nuances and reliefs; it is also a way of making visible a savoir-faire that is often discreet in watches with a jewellery vocation. The radiating geometry meets the graphic lines of the case without erasing its historic design.

Ma Première established itself through its gadrooned motif and a silhouette inspired by Art Deco. The new dial therefore does not claim to refound the icon. It works on continuity: adding a material of light to an already recognised form, without turning the object into an exercise in style.

A watch that remains modular

The interchangeable strap system remains the other component of the project. Smooth leather, textured materials, metallised goatskin or rice-grain bracelet: the watch can change its look without losing its dial. This mobility doubtless explains the longevity of Ma Première. It is not conceived as a fixed model, but as a base able to host several registers of wardrobe.

With a rice-grain bracelet, the guilloché emphasises the jewellery dimension. With a bold colour, it can take on a more contemporary expression. Interchangeability here is not a practical detail; it gives the watch an active relationship with the woman who wears it.

Detail rather than effect

This new version avoids adding a narrative motif or a seasonal colour. The choice is more demanding: entrusting the novelty to the work of the surface. In an era when the jewellery watch readily tells itself through immediate sparkle, Poiray recalls that a presence can be built through the repetition of a line, the rigour of a relief and the time of light.

The house thus places Ma Première in a slow evolution, faithful to its vocabulary. The version with a guilloché dial is announced in boutiques and on poiray.com.

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