De Beers London: Vibrations makes water a jewellery material

by PASCAL IAKOVOU
0 comments

With Vibrations, De Beers London chooses water as the guiding thread of its high jewellery. The collection does not seek to reproduce a landscape; it retains its phenomena — the wave, the fall, the frost, the delta — to translate them into volumes, articulations and diamond cuts.

Four landscapes, one question of movement

Echo takes the Fish River Canyon, in Namibia, as its starting point. Cascade looks to the Tugela Falls, in South Africa. Shimmer attaches itself to the frost flowers of Ellesmere Island, in Canada, while Undulation follows the forms of the Okavango Delta, in Botswana. These parures build an ensemble in which water is not a decor but a way of thinking about the circulation of light.

The Echo necklace gives the most concrete example: its articulated structure can become six pieces, including a tiara, a bracelet and earrings. This transformability is not only a technical effect. It brings the piece closer to the movement it evokes, letting the form change use without losing its design.

The diamond beyond its expected brilliance

Vibrations also introduces cabochon-cut diamonds to De Beers London. Without facets, this cut gives the stone a smooth, domed surface, where light no longer fragments in the same way. The house says it developed this technique over five years and reserved it for stones meeting precise criteria of colour, clarity and structure.

The collection pairs these cabochons with green rough diamonds, Fancy Pinks and a Fancy Intense Blue. In Echo, the 1.12-carat blue is surrounded by white rough diamonds from the GemFair programme. This contrast between polished stone and more irregular material extends work already present in the Talisman collection: making texture a given of the jewel, and not a flaw to be erased.

Traceability as part of the story

The GemFair alluvial diamonds come from riverbeds in Sierra Leone and are presented in Vibrations in both rough and polished form. The house links them to its initiative of traceability and support for artisanal miners. This dimension does not on its own amount to a general guarantee over the whole collection; it does, however, specify the place given, for these stones, to the origin and path of the material.

Undulation develops this relationship at the scale of Botswana. The parure, inspired by the Okavango Delta, brings together six articulated creations and green rough diamonds. De Beers London associates this chapter with its Okavango Eternal conservation programme carried out with the National Geographic Society. The interest of the collection then lies in a simple question: how to give a jewel the long time of a landscape without reducing it to its image?

Vibrations answers through design. The pieces make water circulate between nature, cut and wear, with a restraint that avoids literal illustration. The collection is presented on the De Beers London website.

Cette publication est également disponible en : Français (French) Deutsch (German) Italiano (Italian) Español (Spanish) العربية (Arabic) 简体中文 (Chinese (Simplified)) 日本語 (Japanese) Русский (Russian) Ελληνικά (Greek)

LUXSURE LETTER

Le luxe, sélectionné plutôt que subi.

Recevez notre sélection éditoriale consacrée aux Maisons, aux idées et aux mutations qui façonnent le luxe contemporain.

RECEVOIR LUXSURE LETTER → DÉCOUVRIR LE MAGAZINE →

Related Articles