For the spring-summer 2027 ready-to-wear, Elie Saab builds its collection on the layering of pieces to slip on and take off. Five landmarks to read it by.
The reference. The House places the collection under the sign of Jean Harlow, the star of the 1930s, from whom it takes an effortless allure and a way of wrapping the body in soft lines. It describes a woman who wears her heart on her sleeve and feels the beauty of the world “à fleur de peau”, the title of the season.
The principle. Fluid dresses skim the body. Trailing linings, lace borders and asymmetric hems give the impression of a finish coming undone. The example chosen is a roomy trench, knotted over a cascade of sheer midi skirts. Embroidered bralettes are worn with matching slips, or with skirts and tops in shimmering mesh.
The palette. Sage green, powder blue, blush pink, and black lace. Draped silk wrap tops reveal as much as they conceal.
The details. Embroidered roses run across lingerie-inspired dresses, in black lace or pale pink silk. The corsets each have their own detail: a sprig of tiny flowers, a bolero slipping off one shoulder, a satin spaghetti strap. Ruffles, bows and ribbons are added. On the feet, ballet flats with dizzying heels and crossover mules. On the faces, small flowers and dewdrops.
The eyewear. The House is launching an eyewear line. The flagship model is a gold-plated butterfly frame, monogrammed.
In a collection of sheer fabrics, what gives structure stands out: the trench, the corsets, the bolero. It is by these pieces that the season will be judged, more than by the dresses.
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