Dior silk, Haute Joaillerie

Dior silk

Soie Dior: the most couture of fabrics, the silk of taffeta, pongee, organza, satin; Dior silk and its colors of grand soir dresses. Sois Dior: be a woman in Dior, sensual and playful. Victoire de Castellane’s haute joaillerie collection plays with words as she plays with stones and symbols. The silk here is ribbon, like a link between couture and jewelry, weaving the bonds. It’s a ribbon with which Victoire de Castellane plays, pleating it, winding it, twisting it, unwinding it, twisting it, turning it, twisting it, twisting it… And then, suddenly, it freezes. The silk strikes a pose, like a dress on a mannequin, like a snapshot of a precious moment, and thus the jewel is born: the ribbon is golden, amid a construction of stones. “When you play with a ribbon, it’s instinctive, it’s ephemeral, and I wanted to keep this idea of freedom in the game,” explains Victoire de Castellane. Each piece in the collection spontaneously captures that split second between two movements. The one where a pleat holds a pink sapphire between its waves of pavé gold. The second when the ribbon, which we imagine has just been untied, holds a pear-shaped diamond suspended between its undulating sides. Or the next second, when the movement has already modified the folds of the ribbon and the shape of the necklace.

For the suppleness of silk to be reflected in the effects of the stones, the craftsmen of the finest Parisian haute joaillerie ateliers had to develop a wealth of ingenuity and expertise.

Everywhere, the gold is articulated to match the movement as closely as possible. The rivers of diamonds are punctuated by different cuts – navette, baguette, oval, pear, brilliant – set at different heights so that the relief best translates the sparkling effects of the fabric. The very idea of the frozen moment is reflected in the finesse of the jewels’ execution, and each moment seems to suggest that the next will be different, carried along by the movement of the ribbon’s play.

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