This winter, gastronomic tourism is booming. New products, enthusiasm for new flavors, precious moments to look forward to.
The Limousin region, with its three departments, offers a wide range of pleasures. Delectable flavours, charming hotels, a historic approach to the pleasures of the table.
A good introduction to the square starts with a visit to the Château de Castel Novel.
Now a hotel-restaurant, it was Colette’s home for many years. In some of her writings, she highlighted all the gustatory joys offered by this place. In her correspondence, she wrote of one of her guests: ‘For two days, I gorged him with hare, fruit, garlic, onion, fromage blanc, blackberry jam, cherries of life… I’d do the same to you if you’d come and see me. I’ll do the same for you if you come. ‘.
The Parveaux family, the current owners, have succeeded in highlighting this literary and culinary heritage. Menus evoke the writer and her daughter Bel Gazou. Les Dégustations de Colette and Les gourmandises de Bel Gazou offer an escape for the taste buds. Fumet au vin du saillant mousseux, a sparkling wine, is an invitation to indulge. Semi-cooked foie gras au naturel with Violette de Brive mustard is a must-taste.
Sustained texture, delicate flavors, dreamy aromas… Nicolas Soulié, the chef, wants to perfect this approach even further. In a few words, he reveals his creative desires.
There’s no doubt that you work with local products. Do you think the Limousin is a good place for this type of research, which is very much in vogue?
Yes, the region is very rich. I’m thinking of Limousin veal, apples, walnuts and so on. Certain fruits and vegetables are used to make spirits. They are necessary for specific recipes. Liqueurs, armagnac, etc. Fenouillette, made from fennel extract, is an interesting addition to certain desserts.
You’ve put together some Colette-related menus. How did you go about planning them? Did you consider her writings, her tastes?
It would be tricky to work out exactly what she liked. She had a reputation for being a gourmet. Truffles and foie gras are featured on the menu dedicated to her. Almost a tribute to her epicureanism…
Would you like to draw inspiration from his writings to create a met in his image?
We’ll be closing for a short period this winter, and I’m planning to use this time to work towards this goal.
Your menu is predominantly meat-based. To clarify your tastes, do you prefer to work with meats such as limousine or black-bottomed pork, to the detriment of fish and shellfish?
No, it all depends on the season. Right now, I’m proposing a shellfish, scallops. In summer, I introduce more fish and aquatic elements. I also adapt to tourist demand. They like foie gras, but sometimes, in the evening, they want a lighter meal!
To wit, the establishment preserves Colette’s epicurean spirit. The writer’s spirit is gradually instilled in the visitor’s soul. For extreme addicts, her room has been preserved. Here, it’s easy to immerse yourself in her creative world.
A visit to the markets is recommended. They are the epitome of gastronomy and regional possibilities. An undeniable favorite is Les Halles de Limoges. The 19th-century building is like a jewel. The metal structure is adorned with porcelain panels evocative of the goods on display inside. Ducks and birds of all kinds recall the role of the site.
Inside, an array of shops delights the eye. The products are of the highest quality, and some merchants enjoy an excellent reputation.
Mushrooms abound in autumn: boletus, cloves, ceps and more. Mushrooms are a part of everyday life. They can be transformed at will, in velouté, browned, or other ways, making them a pleasure at every moment.
Meats also enjoy a special place. Gérard Gouraud offers an uncommon diversity of poultry, game and other meats. Note the presence of quail fillets, a judicious way of approaching the bird.
François Brun is a force to be reckoned with. Butcher, charcutier, he offers a wide range of meat products. From pâtés and tripe to rack of lamb, almost anything is possible.
Of course, Limousin meat, appellation cows and black-bottomed pork promise to be a delight.
A busy cheese shop completes the program. JC Cathalifaud sells local products, including raw milk. A pleasure to be savored sip by sip…
On certain days, an outdoor market is held. There are many artisans to consider. Some are unusual. David Fressard is an unexpected snail farmer. He cooks them in a variety of ways.
Metamorphosed into sausages and mouth-watering dishes, these reinvented gastropods continue to influence French gastronomy.
L’Atelier de la Châtaigne specializes in this regional raw material, and offers it in many different forms. Jam, alcohol, … Le feuillardier, this characteristic liqueur, can be drunk as is or with champagne.
One delicacy, Le Cyrano, really deserves special attention.
Baked prunes, delicately enrobed in crunchy dark chocolate and coated in powdered sugar, they’re a temptation. Packaged in a beautiful orange box, you can savor every second. Faure has developed its own artisanal recipe.
Ready to transcend gastronomy in all its subtlety, Maison Denoix has been ingeniously creating liqueurs and various alcohols since 1839. The company, based in Brive-la-Gaillarde, enjoys an excellent reputation…
The alcohols are meticulously prepared using traditional know-how. From quinquinoix to more unusual spirits, Denoix are true liquorists. The chocolate liqueur, with its quintessential flavor, is an absolute must.
Fennel also offers delightful gustatory prospects. They also offer La Moutarde Violette de Brives, a delicate blend of mustard and grape must.
Another address to delight the palate of gourmets is Le Vanteaux. This restaurant, with its exceptional potential, is located in Limoges itself. Run by Christophe Aubisse, this establishment is all about gastronomy. The chef is driven by a genuine interest in flavors and exquisite variations.
Attentive to local products, he knows how to transform and perfect them. Presented as a “taste bud agitator”, he experiments for the better. If you’re a lover of excellence, come and try some of the region’s signature dishes. They will be magnified.
The chef knows how to extrapolate the classics and invent new ones. Every dish is interesting. Of particular note, before dessert, a gorgonzola mushroom subtly coated in white chocolate.
A true revelation.
Accompanying the coffee, the mignardises bear witness to the chef’s creativity. Aesthetic and gustatory pleasures are present to enchant the senses.
To discover, for the best…
Château de Castel Novel
Varetz
05 5585 00 01
Les Vanteaux
162 Boulevard de Vanteaux, 87000 Limoges
05 55 49 01 26
Photo credits, Castel Novel, Sofia LAFAYE
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