“Productive and realistic nostalgia
Officine Générale presents its Autumn-Winter 2016-17 collection
At the Espace Niemeyer, HQ of the French Communist Party, Pierre Mahéo, creator of this up-and-coming brand, pays tribute to Oscar Niemeyer and the idea that, with thoughtful design, a “product” can stand the test of time.
“For this collection, I looked back, eventually entitling it “Productive and Realistic Nostalgia.” I dug into my personal archives, and found a jacket that belonged to my grandfather. Like this place, it’s as modern as ever. I was particularly intrigued by its knitted collar, so I took it apart to develop the same knit, now applied to all my jackets. One coat is inspired by 1960s silhouettes with raglan shoulders. I’ve nicknamed it the “sweater coat” because of its comfortable wadded interior. My pants and jeans are becoming narrower and shorter again, with a shoulder fit.
For the first time, the designer uses black. The rest of the collection is made up of camel, anthracite and the eternal olive, the result of my passion for military uniforms. Here and there, spicy touches of glacier blue or crushed raspberry, these color details that “go wild” in a palette that’s usually under control.
There are also volumes and sweaters in alpaca wool from camelids bred in the highest Peruvian peaks, a noble yarn with an incomparable finish. I’ve also rediscovered a century-old, indestructible woollen cloth made in the mountains of Austria, used in coats. There are also sneakers made from Storm System, a breathable, completely waterproof wool flannel.
A simple, seductive collection featuring noble materials and cuts.
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