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What Art Does in the Locker Room

by pascal iakovou
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The blazer has a history. Born in 19th-century English clubs, adopted by the counterculture, and co-opted by the corporate world, it remains today one of the few garments that doesn’t take sides. BOSS understands this, and that is precisely why the German fashion house chose this garment—and no other—to showcase Katharina Sieverding’s work.

Nine pieces. Nine copies of each. Twenty-five Swiss francs. The capsule collection presented at Art Basel 2026 bears these numbers as a signature—rare enough to be valuable, yet accessible enough in the world of luxury to avoid unnecessary ostentation.

Watching the Sun at Midnight

“Looking at the Sun at Midnight.” The title of Sieverding’s work, chosen to adorn the silk lining of these blazers, is no coincidence. It is a self-portrait taken in 1975 by the German artist—born in 1943, trained in Düsseldorf in the shadow and light of Joseph Beuys, and who had made her debut at Documenta 5 the previous year. A monumental photograph, an image of the self transformed into an archetype.

Choosing a lining as an exhibition space is a rare occurrence in the history of fashion. Usually, designs are displayed on the outside: prints, embroidery, and patterns on the surface. Here, the artwork is worn on the inside. It is intimate. It belongs only to the person wearing the garment—and to those to whom they choose to reveal it.

The Designer vs. the Artist

Marco Falcioni, creative director of BOSS, spoke in his presentation about the idea of a “dialogue that transcends the boundaries of fashion.” The phrase might seem clichéd were it not for the fact that it reflects a real tension in the brand’s work over the past several seasons: how can a major commercial fashion house reconcile its own legitimacy with the distinct and independent legitimacy of an artist of Sieverding’s stature?

BOSS’s response is clear and compelling: don’t try to resolve this tension, but rather showcase it. The artist maintains her integrity—the chosen image dates from 1975 and has not been retouched for the collection. The brand maintains its own—the blazer is a recognizable BOSS piece, impeccably tailored, with no stylistic compromises.

Art Basel as an Echo Chamber

The venue is no coincidence. Over the course of a few decades, Art Basel has become the forum where the status of art within the global economy is negotiated. Luxury brands have a strong presence there—no longer merely as discreet sponsors, but as self-proclaimed cultural players. This capsule collection is part of this trend, but with one notable difference: it does not seek to legitimize BOSS through art. Instead, it aims to create a hybrid object that belongs fully to neither of these worlds.

Sieverding, for her part, is an artist who has always embraced contrasts. Her monumental self-portraits from the 1970s were already bold statements: a woman reclaiming her self-image in an art world that was still very male-dominated. That this same image now appears on the lining of a garment from one of the world’s leading fashion houses is perhaps the logical continuation of a movement that began fifty years ago. The midnight sun, it seems, never sets.

Cette publication est également disponible en : Français (French)

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