Élie Saab, the undisputed king of oriental elegance, held his show on the last day of Paris Fashion Week. And it seems that the season’s trend towards modesty and simplicity has also infected the Lebanese designer.
Black and navy blue open the show with more masculine looks than we’re used to from our favorite designer. The silhouettes are structured, with no superfluity, and the only decorative aspect that might shine through comes from the draping. The transparent shirts, however, remind us of the true nature of the Élie Saab woman: seductive and fatal.
About the dresses…..it seems there’s so much to say about the famous Élie Saab dresses! The sober start to the show didn’t hint at the explosion of color to come….so on the dresses. Color, lurex, lace and embroidery: all the ingredients of the Élie Saab recipe are present and hit the mark. A nod to her oriental origins, the lace is thickly embroidered, and the designs are reminiscent of henna tattoos.
Length is de rigueur – this is a winter collection – and movement is emphasized in an almost choreographic way. This makes the garments all the more dramatic and theatrical, as the length so dear to Élie Saab exudes an aura of sophistication and nobility, as if from another era, an era of glamour.
Élie Saab no longer needs to prove that he is a genius of evening wear: his dresses enhance the female body in an almost magical way, his creations are square, perfect, as if sent from heaven. White looks close the show. A luminous, virginal white, pure and symbolic of the different emotions and attitudes embraced by the Élie Saab woman.
Photographs by Samantha Rakotoson (Nikon D800)
Mary Yasmine Arrouche
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