When it opened, the Mama Shelter created a buzz. The hotel and restaurant, designed by Philippe Stark, received extensive media coverage. Indeed, setting up this establishment in this working-class district of Paris’s 20th arrondissement was a real challenge.
What about a few years later? Does the place still deserve its flattering reputation? That’s what we decided to find out when we dined there. Set up on the terrace, the view over the “petite ceinture” is astonishing. The sofas are very comfortable. The menu is presented to us in the form of a sheet folded into four. We are finally tempted by Fish and Chips, the typically British dish revisited by Senderens. The paper packaging captures the Fast Food spirit. The dish is good, if a little greasy. The home fries are pleasant. The white wine from Gascony is very fruity.
Hours go by and the place is packed. Inside, the atmosphere is relaxed and bobo. A DJ mixes, while the bar on a central island is never empty. Singer Rachid Taha comes out for a smoke.
For dessert, a special mention goes to the stunning Carambar fondant.
All in all, a very pleasant time in a very raw and organic setting.
An experience well worth the detour!
Julien Tissot
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