Summer is often synonymous with journeys to faraway and exotic lands, such as the African continent. And these journeys become inexhaustible sources of inspiration for designers, who draw on them to take us on a journey of our own.
This season, Luis Buchinho takes us on a journey to the heart of Africa’s arid landscapes at twilight, choosing the very serious setting of a Lycée Henri IV library to present his graphic and natural Spring-Summer 2011 collection. The silhouettes are fluid and contemporary, ideal for the harsh lands of Africa. Each piece is an exercise in style, combining different materials, assertive asymmetry and a sense of movement. The garments embrace the body without constricting it, redrawing new lines in a natural way. Hair is impeccably pulled back into a severe ponytail, and the silhouette is often belted and elongated thanks to the graphic effect of two-tone high sandals.
The designer favors organic materials for this collection: faded silk, linen gauze and spider lace mingle with vegetable leather through bias cuts, pleats and drapes perfectly mastered by Luis Buchinho.
Leather often appears in these collections, in detail as in the finishing touches to Bermuda shorts, in belts to emphasize the slim waist, or in jackets, which he reinvents as a new ruffled perfecto, worn belted over an asymmetrical long skirt or open over a draped dress. He adds zippers to these pants.
Luis Buchinho offers us his light version of tartan in a cotton tweed in shades of gray and white, which he imagines lightly cut on the bias as an asymmetrical top, straight as pants or light as a summer trench. Like the other materials, this famous tweed is immediately blended with the other fabrics in a subtle and absolutely natural way. No combination is too shocking, and the whole collection has a minimalist, urban-chic feel. The designer even dares to use a zebra print, but it stands on its own.
Luis Buchinho plays with asymmetry by layering different lengths. A shoulder is cleverly uncovered on a long dress, transparent leggings appear under Bermuda shorts, a skirt or tunic covers pants or a short skirt like a pareo covering the body.
The Portuguese designer introduces volume to this collection. We love the sarouel effect of an asymmetrical skirt with a puffed side. We find the famous ruffles that were so striking last season on the sides of certain pants, bringing them to life with every step.
Chromatic contrasts multiply. The Spring-Summer 2011 collection features sand, tobacco, cinnamon, rust and earth tones, after starting out in white, gray and black. A variety of highly visual prints enliven some of the more classic styles.
Luis Buchinho offers us a collection of androgynous silhouettes, with close-fitting cuts, asymmetry and layering for a resolutely contemporary woman who wants to remain chic and urban at the same time.
Marie-Odile Radom
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