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Bulgari Lucea, watchmaking jewelry

by pascal iakovou
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LVCEA BRINGS NEW COLORS TO LIGHT

From haute horlogerie to jewelry and new dial colors, the Emblématique model enters a new dimension.

Lucea creates a direct link between light and time. This obvious relationship has enabled it to take a prominent place in the world of women’s watches. Bulgari gives new colors to light with its many inspired creations. The shimmering hues are as much a part of the Haute Horlogerie jewel-set creations as they are of the purely jeweled models. Year after year, the inexhaustible theme of Jardins d’Art is reinterpreted in declensions exacerbating the crafts. In 2016, Lucea continues the saga begun in 2013. And is adorned in precious finery, in a very watchmaking echo of the Maison’s jewellery collections. Il Giardino Paradiso, two precious watches with finely and richly decorated dials, evoke lush flora and fauna with a colorful, exotic bird-of-paradise motif. Sophisticated, the complex dials of both versions pay tribute to the talent of the craftsmen who, with the requisite grace, marry the balance of materials and colors for a final result with a perfect thematic and chromatic balance. The blue mother-of-pearl features the sky in the background, enhanced by the bird of paradise and a floral motif of leaves and flowers. The painting is brought to life by the meticulous hand-painted miniature, highlighted by the brilliant-cut diamonds that complete it. The whole is enhanced by a diamond setting on the bezel and bracelet attachments. These creations merge Bulgari’s natural territories of jewelry and watchmaking: both interpretations of Il Giardino Paradiso are enriched by Bulgari’s Swiss Haute Horlogerie expertise, as they beat to the rhythm of the Manufacture Tourbillon Calibre (BVL 263).

Alongside these two poetic visions, and in the pure register of Haute Joaillerie, Bulgari is also offering this year a remarkable version of Lucea, entirely set in “snow”. This 18-carat pink gold watch is adorned entirely with diamonds, both on the case and dial and on the bracelet with its famous articulated links, symbolic of the Lucea collection. The total weight of diamonds is 10.9 carats for 1859 stones and 117 grams of 18-carat pink gold. The overall effect is one of intense luminosity and pure softness. The watch is powered by the B77 self-winding mechanical caliber, indicating hours, minutes and seconds. It has a 42-hour power reserve.

Piccola Lucea: a measured diameter.
But Lucea also knows how to renew itself by playing on the register of size. For active women, the Roman brand offers a seductive new model, Piccola Lucea. This new version has been redesigned in a measured diameter, responding in a very contemporary way to the growing demand for smaller women’s watches. This everyday watch can also be worn as a piece of jewelry in the evening, like all Bulgari creations.
Bulgari’s creative approach is always geared towards modernity. Lucea is therefore reinterpreted in 2016 with slimmer, more measured proportions to expand this highly successful range. The case is 23mm, still associated with its highly inventive bracelet. A little sister that already measures up to its luminous family. For Piccola Lucea is above all a tribute to light. Here’s a sundial for the 21st century, drawing on ancient Roman culture to sublimate the measurement of time on the wrist of urban women, with a chic, discreet watch.

Sober, contemporary elegance.
These are important notions, constantly at the heart of the House’s creative approach. The Lucea family bears all the distinctive Bulgari hallmarks. For example, the baton hour-markers and Roman numerals marking noon and six o’clock are instantly recognizable. However, Lucea continues to display a very sober contemporary elegance, with its unique, recognizable shape and the absence of an overly ostentatious logo.
Another way to give the Lucea watch a glow is to offer variations of colors for its dial. Blue and violet will be the two hues of the year. They are complemented and reinforced by a complementary version with a mother-of-pearl dial, and will be available from spring onwards. Each is offered either with an alligator strap matching the dial color, or with the steel bracelet with articulated, architectural links specific to the collection.
With Lucea, the art of the watch bracelet has found a new expression, thanks in particular to the highly ingenious system for attaching and articulating the links. One of the most important challenges was to overcome the permanent ambiguity between flexibility and rigidity, so that thanks to the bracelet made of highly technical links, the watch could hold its shape while remaining comfortable on the wrist at all times. Because Lucea is not a “jewel that tells the time”, but a watch that women like to wear on every occasion of their busy day, while also keeping it on at festive moments. A joyful, almost gourmand dimension, asserted by the pink cabochon that makes the crown sparkle and gives complementary reflections to the round case. The change in dimensions requires a certain restraint on the dial, so that its purity and reflections ensure perfect legibility of the time in all circumstances. At the same time, the greatest creative effort went into the design of the watch itself. Bulgari took pleasure in taming the play of light and shadow on the case, dial, bracelet attachments and link reflections.

Shadows and light.
It’s the contrasts of light and shadow that shape volumes and can hollow out or sublimate forms. Finding the right directions to guide the light is a fascinating task.
Born of a love of light and time, Lucea is dedicated to seduction. A magnetism reinforced by her new proportions, universally graceful and able to be enjoyed anywhere in the world with beauty and sensuality, ease and ease.

Cette publication est également disponible en : Français (French)

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