With the eleventh collection under his name, Julien Fournié radicalizes his choices to define the essence of his style.
The aesthetic drive is set in a collection that makes blacks sing.
“I thought a lot about the precise elegance of Maria Casarès in Les Dames du Bois de Boulogne. How do you render the charm printed on black-and-white film while integrating the obligatory color into life?”
The inspiration for his answer, the couturier found “in German Expressionism, and more particularly in the painter Otto Dix, in that way of juxtaposing hues to create emotion.”
These Anita Berber-style bewitchresses are molded into sharp cuts that give every movement the posture and head carriage of nobility. Cut in concentrated jersey, as if surrounded by a flight of chiffon, the curves of the female body dance without ever losing their aristocratic allure.
In a world reminiscent of David Lynch, Julien Fournié’s temptresses take on fundamental cuts, thorny prints and spiky necklaces like so many talismans.
In contrast to the arcane blacks, the bright flat colors inlaid with brocades or embossed with bakelite embroidery echo the eternal struggle between mystery and shimmer, innocence and mischief, Good and Evil.
“Shadow would not exist without light. That’s what these slender heroines might whisper to discerning ears. Whether they adopt the models of the first ready-to-wear line – integrated into the first Couture silhouettes – whether they favor tapered finery, colorama derbies, or favor the bewitchment of a Couture total look, they choose to assume a personality that dares to transfigure itself.
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