Even if he doesn’t like celebrations and looking back, Karl Lagerfeld nevertheless celebrated his 50 years of loyalty to the House of Fendi and opened the show with a blank page. And right from the start, modernity is in place. A large, loose-fitting coat with imposing buttons, followed by a long straight dress in leather with a high collar, took center stage. Rust, saffron and geometric prints inspired by Swiss artist Sophie Taeuber then illuminate the wardrobe. The cuts are straight and long. Materials structure the silhouette, with leather panels applied to the side of a skirt. Patchwork fur brings a new graphic look to coats. Shearling warms the bottom of pants. Leather bibs are applied to white shirts. A collection reminiscent of Karl’s aesthetic: rigorous and graphic. New volumes for “doudoune” dresses and jackets. A real sensation of softness, too, for a strapless dress in pale mink that brings the show to a delicate, luxurious close.
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