SAINT LAURENT SPRING SUMMER 17
For this spring-summer 2017, Anthony Vaccarello let himself be carried away by Mr. Saint Laurent’s images, like flashes, snapshots.
In his mind, the photograph of Paloma Picasso, arriving in the couturier’s life with her 1940s rags and her own unique style. She inspired his 1972 “Scandal” collection, irreverent and disruptive in the eyes of society.
Anthony Vaccarello transposes this attitude to the present. This Saint Laurent woman who, today, draws her references from the 1980s to reappropriate them. A woman who cultivates a taste for the beautiful and the bizarre, for the great classics and for a style all her own.
The starting point for this collection: a dress with exaggerated sleeves from the archives. From this, Anthony Vaccarello creates a contemporary silhouette, a kind of sensitive, personal collage.
It’s as if this girl with a strong fashion culture deconstructed the model, lowered the shoulders, added a sleeve to a bustier, wore it with jeans or under a boy’s jacket – a distant evocation of the home-made pea jacket.
A cornerstone of the house vocabulary, the tuxedo permeates this season. Exploring the tailoring expertise of the Saint Laurent workshops, Anthony Vaccarello breaks down and revises the typology of the tuxedo.
There’s a second degree to this collection, a mise en abîme of what Mr. Saint Laurent loved above all else: twisting bourgeois conventions and indulging in tastelessness.
The soundtrack was designed by Sebastian.
This spring-summer 2017 de lé takes place on rue de Bellechasse in the 17th-century Abbaye de Penthemont, which until 2014 housed the French Ministry of the Armed Forces, and which is currently being renovated to accommodate Saint Laure’s headquarters and showrooms in 2018.
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