Inspired by the Greco-Roman universe, Luis Buchinho could have been content with a first-degree interpretation, with a multiplicity of antique draperies and long dresses. But this is to misunderstand the Portuguese designer, who offers us a modern vision with a tropical touch for Spring Summer 2012.
Transporting us to sun-drenched lands, Luis Buchinho wraps women in airy, light fabrics in soft, sunny hues, offering sensual, feminine drapes. The silhouette is magnified, flowing, the waist is marked and curves deliciously enhanced.
The designer’s famous ruffles are back on the sides of pants, having been absent last season. Returning in a more subdued way on tight-fitting pants with large zippers and marked black waists, they shape a long silhouette for a chic casual look.
The first silhouettes were marked by asymmetry and the search for a certain architecture to reinforce the fluidity of dresses and skirts. The asymmetry is manifold, exposing a slender shoulder, sensually revealing a patch of skin, or favoring pronounced plays on length, short at the front and longer at the back.
Masculine-inspired jackets structure the silhouettes, multiplying military references. Sequined braids and deep Y-shaped necklines underlined with leather lend an almost martial allure.
Clearly inspired by the world of the sea, the designer adds a few meticulous references from season to season, distilling subtle reminders here and there. Magnificent rope-tied sandals accompany some silhouettes, while macramé pieces evoke catamaran nets.
Silk, jersey, gauze and lightweight cotton are the Portuguese designer’s preferred materials. The cotton is woven, and the intricate knitwear is revealed in crochet, macramé or with an almost metallic aspect to better trap us in his nets. The gladiator sandal is reinvented for lightness of step.
Nude hues dominate, inspired by Miami’s pastel-colored Art Deco buildings, revealing a second-skin wardrobe in which yellow makes timid appearances before exploding in conquest on tops and dresses. A timid Oriental-style print takes us to faraway lands of elegance.
The Luis Buchinho woman also knows how to conquer, revealing her seductive potential in jet-black outfits. Deep décolleté, sexy mesh and transparency are her ultimate tools of seduction.
For Spring Summer 2012, Luis Buchinho turns women into a new vestal, inspired by the Greco-Roman universe, which he modernizes with asymmetrical draping and a certain architecture. Favoring light, airy fabrics, the Portuguese designer brings a breath of fresh air with a touch of the tropics and a hint of his beloved seafaring universe, presenting us with the image of a sensual, urban woman who loves a certain sophistication in everyday life.
Marie-Odile Radom
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