The invitation already gave an indication, and the fold will be de rigueur on this autumn afternoon in the Mineralogy Gallery of the Natural History Museum.
For Spring-Summer 2011, Spanish designer Amaya Arzuaga’s first Paris show features graphic silhouettes inspired by the works of German painter Oskar Schlemmer. Each piece seems almost to have been sculpted using the delicate art of origami, yet remains excessively feminine and terribly airy. Geometric rigor, volume and linear structures create innovative silhouettes with soft waistlines and a mix of short dresses, skirts and jumpsuits with asymmetrical shoulders.
Judged on monumental platform sandals, the Amaya Arzuaga woman likes to explore volumes, sometimes disproportionate, in dresses with multiple structures highlighting the finesse of her legs and delicately emphasizing her waist.
Like a fashion architect, the designer likes to play on the perception of these models, and offers a collection where duality takes on its full meaning. Seemingly wise from the front, each dress becomes hyper-structured, even completely designer in profile, with multiple hand-sewn folds and pleats. Each model becomes unique: here, a flap covers the front of a dress, while pleats are added to skirts. Soft, hand-sewn tubes adorn the sides of certain dresses or become light, transparent tops for an undeniably chic effect. But the designer still knows how to surprise, offering models that are all round, whereas the vast majority of the collection favors angles.
Asymmetry and symmetry steal the show in a collection that’s all about transparency and softness, without forgetting the bold, pronounced colors. Cherry red, smoky pink vs. hot pink, black, green, white and gray form a soft, dynamic palette for ultra-contemporary chic. Organic materials are omnipresent, from sandals combining several natural materials (wood, leather and cork) to the cotton used for dresses. As for the other materials chosen, lightness remains the watchword and noble materials are favored: cotton and silk cotton cohabit with tulle and gauze, viscose allows for the most daring transparencies and silk is sometimes metallic for a definite futuristic effect.
For her first show, Amaya Arzuaga is targeting a resolutely contemporary woman, asserting herself by choosing a rather anti-conformist wardrobe that is above all graphic, yet retains a very natural chic edge. The only downside is that while the platform sandals are absolutely fabulous, they’re too high, making it almost impossible to walk gracefully in them. A little less height would have enhanced the silhouette.
Nevertheless, we can’t wait for next season to see if the Spanish designer confirms her unrivalled style.
Photo credit: Pierre Delpuech / Paris Agency
Marie-Odile Radom
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