Tag : Berluti
“The career is a 20th century invention, and I don’t want one”. -Christopher McCandless played by Emile Hirsch in Into The Wild in 2007. A sentence that sums up the times – the changes and misunderstandings between generations “who have toiled all their lives” and don’t understand why their children don’t have a CDIdon’ t want them any more. It’s a question that the men in the Berlutti or Cerruti 1881 collections are no doubt asking themselves, in their perfectly cut suits of unadulterated refinement, with materials that require years of MINIMUM WAGE. In contrast, VETEMENTS is back with more guns than ever. A collection reminiscent of the first. Flashback to the career of Demna Gvesalia, whose trajectory could be the stuff of dreams for men in upper-class suits. And yet, the message behind the collection is far from light-hearted: it’s linked to events in Russia – a country that Gvesalia and her team know better than the media.
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- Cerruti 1881 : élégance sereine pour carrière sous soucis
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- Cerruti 1881 :élégance sereine pour carrière sous soucis
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- Berluti:élégance sereine pour carrière sous soucis
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- ACNE Studio : un costume, mais rouge. Un signal d’alerte ?
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- La contre-scène Vêtement
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- Détails défilé Vêtement
Leaving your family, your friends, not marrying the neighbor’s daughter: changing your life. Not having the life our parents had. No doubt the same story is passed down from generation to generation. As a result, the costumes are over-zipped, with shoulders that are far too broad. Adventure: a much more appealing idea. For this, you need anoraks: Acne Studio, Juun J or Alexander McQueen offer solid, soft anoraks. Dreams of adventure come to a head with Ann Demeulemester ‘s powder-colored collection based on pirate imagery. A little “heart of a pirate”. While Comme des garçons is far less tender: faded wigs cover the heads of mannequins whose faces end up buried by dinosaur skulls – the great symbol of the extinction of a species.
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- Comme Des Garçons homme plus
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- Comme Des Garçons homme plus
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- Comme Des Garçons homme plus
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- Ann Demeulemeester
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- Juun J
The question seems to be: in the fashion of the future, will there still be decreed costumes, work-related social disguises or just clothes?
These collections always feature trench coats cut with a scalpel – extreme precision and incisive results. Oversized, military or street tailoring , always with a few tartan prints.
Hed Meyner: Catch me if you can, pretty career.
A third parade presented in the heart of the “Grandes Ecoles” district. The kind that parents want to add to their offspring’s pedigree. Always with elegance, Meyner works volumes. Pants so wide they look like skirts, covering the slender legs of hypokhâgneux students. Glasses, knitted sweaters: the entire wardrobe of a student who’s lost himself in the acronyms of the different courses. The costumes of his future pursue him. They’re not ready yet – neither they nor the suits, whose dry-cleaning plastics are still present.
Hed Mayner
Hed Mayner
Hed Mayner
Maison Martin Magiela: Merci Patron
“I’d call it John Galliano for Martin Margiela. Because there were so many references to Martin’s work in my eyes.” Renzo Rosso told Fashion Network. For the first time, the boss entrusted the house’s men’s collection to John Galliano. A fine gesture of confidence for a designer whose career went up in smoke one night at a bar in 2011. In reality, Galliano’s chimeras were well known. From now on, the designer remains discreet: he no longer bows at the end of shows. Playing with his life, messing up his career: Galliano is back, thanks to a work of deconstruction. His personal deconstruction is reflected in his clothes. For this collection, he tackles the great classics of the men’s wardrobe: bombers, duffle coats and trench coats. It’s a risky choice: the models’ heads are wrapped in plaster, and the show ends with a set of white pieces reminiscent of a straitjacket, rather than a communion alb. Yet the dawn is less somber than at Comme des Garçons – even if“Please Release Me and Set Me Free” plays in the background.
Alexander McQueen: customs and costumes
In a hushed atmosphere, Sarah Burton presents a collection that pays tribute to the art of tailoring. The suits are stunningly rigorous. One man, one suit? Alexander McQueen had repeatedly commented on the unity between clothing and profession, using Wall Street bankers. With Burton, it’s a different story: how to get out of the suit? At once adventurer, flower-printed dandy in Hugh Hefffner-style robes and English punk: a collection that pays homage to the British sense of style. A culture where fringe groupuscules have always put the kibosh on their outfits. Like the Mod’s who adopt upper-class suits to avoid looking like their working-class parents. Yet the opposite is true of today’s fashion, where functional garments are all the rage, as with Junya Watanabe.
Alexander McQueen
Alexander McQueen
Alexander McQueen, Batman?
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- Cid Vicious
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- Alexander McQueen
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- Hugh Hefner
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- Alexander McQueen
“I know the laws, but the laws don’t know me”: on this fourth day, that’s what fashion is singing to us.
Bringing together Alexander McQueen, Ann demeulemeeter, Comme des garçons and VETEMENTS in the same grid: that’s the challenge of acritical anti-fashion scene. Whether it’s the Antwerp 6, the Rei Kawabuto clan, or the wild children of Great Britain: collectives that have left their mark on fashion history. After all, there is a history of fashion-which is not at the end of its career.
Into the wild is a fable about the adventure that is life. Should the construction of a life be based on a total rejection of known models? In the end, Christopher McCandless suffers from his self-imposed exile. Sharing is also life: even if you don’t share everyone’s convictions. It ‘s a kind of barroom philosophy that you can write aboutInto the Wild because it’s a book – after all. When are we going to think with fashion?
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