Date:01/19. Paris Fashion Week Day 2. Men’s Fashion Day 10. Worthy of a science fiction film, a Blade Runner 2017, where only a few men survive, Boris Bidjan Saberi’s fashion drives out androids to reconnect with the essence of materials and colors. Roots gorged with ochre, and organic materials that defy tarry asphalt: all worn by men, scrutinized around the world through delocalized screens. Fashion Week is in Paris, but also in Kaliningrad (Gosha Rubchinskiy) and Japan (announcement of the next Louis Vuitton show).
Fashion haunted by numbers and saved by their combinations
Numbers grace the life and fashion of Boris Bidjan Saberi. The Barcelona-based, Munich-born, half-Persian designer has been parading in Paris since 2014. A life full of signs, mile markers, lane numbers and cab meters. Yet it is the rigorous coding provided by numbers, their ability to serve as landmarks, that organizes Boris Bidjan Saberi’s work and story. 11: date of birth and title of his second, more urban line. 1996: he reinterprets Levis jackets and makes a name for himself. 2006: he graduates from his fashion and pattern-making studies in Barcelona. 2007: he creates his eponymous brand.
Men’s Costume à la Bidjan has nothing to do with a lotto game, where mischievous numbers are covered by greasy tokens in a village hall. These are urban costumes that can be seen as a guarantee of mathematician’s rigor, accuracy and methodical knowledge. Clothes with precise cuts and meticulously crafted materials. An equation where X stands for leather and structured shapes from the West, and Y for light knits and flowing fabrics from the Middle East.
If the equation has no solution, write the word nothing / That’s the rule. Here, the solution has an urban allure, where the glow begins to appear over time.
A prelude aesthetic
Material contrast, zoom: texture. Unzoom: restructure.
The image is not what it seems. The garment is no longer worn as we had imagined and persuaded ourselves. It stands on its own. A body in search of another-but not that of an android. The story of life, the story of fashion: a supple, floating sculpture, a unique piece that begs to be united with a body that lives and wanders the streets. Boris Bidjan draws his inspiration from skateboard culture. Where no one owns the space. From this reference, he draws the need for adrenalin and the precision required, without which it’s impossible to take off: without which you crash into the asphalt. A texture reminiscent of the jackets in his latest collection.
Boris Bidjan Saberi: the poetry of fusion
One body called by another: an attraction that has long been explained by rare Latin-sounding words. Boris Bidjan Saberi was not born of a futuristic robot, even if the men he dresses sometimes evoke this image. A fusion of Germanic and Persian culture, it’s not surprising that alchemy is at the heart of the designer’s collections. The Boris Bidjan Saberi man dresses functionally while appreciating floating shapes.
Far from being dematerialized, Boris Bidjan Sabri’s clothes are a return to raw materials. The designer works them to the body, moving them from half-light to bright light, and confronting them with crackling flashbulbs… His transparent leather is now patented, confirming a craftsmanship that no android will simulate.
For the Spring Summer 2017 Season it’s the tale of the ascent, the emergence from the shadows, the elevation to the light that soars to the podium. A message of hope.
Image source: http://borisbidjansaberi.tumblr.com
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