Antonio Ortega’s Autumn-Winter 2015-2016 fashion show took place in the underground section of the Palais de Tokyo. In a twilight atmosphere, an unconventional misty scenography, the models of this collection named MUMMIFIC appeared. Mystery seems to be the keyword of this collection. A tribute to feminine mysteries, to the mysteries of couture, where unexpected materials and cuts come together to deliver legendary models.
All that remains of the mannequins are faces, figures surrounded and enveloped in a garment that takes hold of the whole body. The right body shapes silhouettes in colored canvas, where the designer has applied shorts, skirts, suits and pants – all classic pieces. Yet there’s nothing classic about the silhouettes in this collection. The pieces are diverted and the volumes frame the faces. Shoulders and busts are redesigned by sculpting with scarves and knitwear, accessories whose powers were previously unknown to us.
A visionary designer, Anthony Ortega reveals the subversive potential of accessories that have been formatted by everyday life. He combines satins, wools, tulles, lurex and chenilles without fear of convention. And nothing seems so strange: the symbiosis works. Ortega’s couture is a kind of couture of the underground, for it is in the countercurrents that the reappropriation of common elements that have become invisible takes on new meaning. It’s an innovative gesture, to be able to see differently, where everyone else thinks they’ve already seen everything.
It makes you want to casually drape a scarf around your shoulders, to let yourself fall in love with the sensuality of wool, with all the mysteries of the Ortega woman.
Photo credits: Pierre Sénard
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