Gosset Celebris 1998: the family reserve in magnum

by PASCAL IAKOVOU
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Kept to train the family’s palate, fewer than 500 magnums of Celebris 1998 are now offered to enthusiasts. This is the first edition of Maison Gosset’s “La Réserve de la Famille”, recently disgorged.

Maison Gosset, which presents itself as the oldest Champagne wine House, with origins in Aÿ in 1584, has for generations kept a few bottles of its finest cuvées. The House specifies the purpose: not to build an archive, but to train the palate, pass on a style and serve as a benchmark for tastings to come. “La Réserve de la Famille” was originally intended for purely family use.

For its first edition, the House chose Celebris 1998, launched in 2006. Fewer than 500 magnums were kept before being disgorged, that is, before the fermentation deposit was removed from the bottle, after more than a quarter of a century of maturation. The cases are numbered: the one in the image bears number 001 of 491. The House presents the magnum, 150 cl, as the ageing format par excellence.

Celebris is Gosset’s rare range, born in 1995. In more than thirty years, it has known only ten vintage editions, two in blanc de blancs and six in rosé, in quantities the House describes as extremely limited. The House sees in them “exceptional cuvées” rather than mere prestige cuvées.

The status of the bottle changes here. Until this edition, the reserve served the family. It is now offered to enthusiasts, gourmets and friends of the House, with a conviction Gosset formulates thus: a Grand Vin is appreciated in the moment, a House’s style reveals itself over time.

The interest of the subject is established: a dated vintage, a run of fewer than 500, a format and a history of keeping. The quality of the wine will be judged at tasting, after nearly three decades of maturation, and no recommendation can precede it. The vintage is read on the label; the wine’s hold can only be read in the glass.

Alcohol abuse is dangerous for health; consume in moderation.



Gosset Celebris 1998, “La Réserve de la Famille”, first edition. Magnum (150 cl), fewer than 500 bottles, numbered case. Recommended retail price: €850 incl. VAT. At wine merchants, in direct sale at the Domaine, 12 rue Godart Roger, 51200 Épernay, and on iconic-nectars.fr.

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