Carven, Men, Spring summer 2015, Paris
Born in an anonymous suburb on the outskirts of an industrial city, the Carven boy sets off on an adventure amidst gas stations, schoolyards and soccer fields surrounded by large housing complexes, before daring to take the plunge into springtime nature in full bloom. In a world reminiscent of Ken Loach’s films, the constant tension between crumbling industrial structures and the delicacy of nature reclaiming its rights, a blend of raw hooligan style and mass-market aesthetics, sets the tone for the season. The boy’s clothes echo his environment, borrowing functional elements from sportswear but slipping in poetic details to better reintroduce a few touches of beauty into a graceless environment.
Free of fashion diktats, he builds his wardrobe around an accumulation of garments. The shapes of the collection reflect this hybridization: oversized bombers, sweatshirts and baggy pants, counterpointed by slim zip-up jackets, and tailored suits combined with multi-pocket parkas. The slim-fitting pants are sometimes hemmed with an elastic ribbon, a nod to jogging bottoms, and sometimes cover the entire shoe, creating an impression of softness and comfort.
Suits, coats, pants and shirts take on the color codes of streetwear and are adorned with zippers or Velcro closures. Flowers, meanwhile, are a key graphic reference for the season, reinventing the poetic style of these practical, technical garments: petals embroidered on bombers, as if the young man had strolled through a park, barnyard prints on apprentices’ garments or soccer t-shirts with a poetic accent. There’s also an embroidered patch in the shape of a snowdrop, positioned like an oversized logo, like a sponsored athlete’s tracksuit.
The color palette offers a striking clash between nature and artifice, layering earth tones like khaki and industrial green. The intense blue of a plastic bag strewn across the grass is echoed by vibrant Irish green, the electric orange of a bomber’s lining, and the familiar black and white of the brand’s logo; a play of opposites in which technical materials play a part: dense jersey, raw Macintosh canvas, a technical fault in contrast with light gabardine and summery woven wool.
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