Hybrids, crossovers, displacements and recompositions seem to be the watchwords of Boris Bidjan Saberi’s new season. For his Spring Summer 2016 collection, the designer playfully and intelligently pursues a recurring quest for the functional qualities of his favorite wardrobe, with its predominant streetwear influences.
This season’s silhouettes are a subtle balance of tailoring and blurring, underscoring a contemporary outlook blended with a mastery and taste for artisanal know-how. Workers in workwear are transformed into deep-sea explorers, a crossbreeding of two wardrobes with their own functional needs that, through this hybridization, reveal the designer’s true obsession, that of studying and understanding the body as a support, the fundamental basis legitimizing his creations.
The anatomical cut-outs that have punctuated his collections over the seasons, and which have contributed to the affirmation of Saberi’s own aesthetic, are now redesigned along the lines of neoprenes and other underwater suits. Far from the original aim of flattering the wearer’s curves, the play of seams, here the starting point and pretext for a study of pattern-making, elevates the fashion designer to the rank of alchemist.
The silhouettes are traversed by cuts as surprising as they are meticulous, revealing upon inspection a puzzle of textures and wefts that underline the house’s attention to detail. If anatomy is at the heart of Boris Bidjan Saberi’s cutting, his materials are also organic. Poplin shirts, once donned, crunch with the movements of the body, cottons have a raspy hand, and vegetable-tanned leather jackets take us on an unexpected olfactory journey. The same care is given to the interiors, which, adorned with experimental treatments and hand-finishes – Saberi signatures – highlight the function of jackets and vests with retractable and removable linings for the season.
The play of materials is deployed through strong, emblematic pieces; terrestrial or aqua- tic, overalls and overalls are declined in a color range rather unusual for the designer. Black, whose virtuosity in revealing cut Saberi has never ceased to emphasize, is joined by “nuclear” blues and a variation of grays and off-whites. A bold palette that nonetheless serves the designer’s expert hand.
With their evocative colors, the silhouettes of these contemporary aquanauts are complemented by equally referential ap- parats: protective armor bags, laced boots with catchy soles – inspired by ancient diver’s shoes – ensure that this hybrid army has an itinerary marked out by functional resources.
Once again, Saberi surprises with his creativity, reappropriating worlds that have been explored many times before, but which reveal all their ingenuity under the expert hand and sharp eye of the designer, thus reaffirming the signature and creative maturity of Boris Bidjan Saberi.
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