Relais & Châteaux is the quintessence of good gastronomic taste. Last November, they presented to the press their Manifesto for a better world through table and hospitality. Chefs, hoteliers and sommeliers are committed to this vision, and now it’s time to shine the spotlight on their work with local producers.
For the Fête de la Gastronomie in Paris in September, Relais & Châteaux is organizing a large market of France’s finest market gardeners to illustrate the diversity of our country’s produce and promote each region. Chefs will be showcasing the seasonal vegetables of their regions, and the artisans who contribute every day to the success of their kitchens: from the earth to the plate.
Sunday, September 27 at the market with Relais & Chateaux chefs
Discovering little-known vegetables, cutting and tasting workshops for children and adults, preparing simple, tasty recipes (soups, juices), exchanging ideas about seeds: around the stalls where market gardeners will be selling their produce from all over France, chefs and producers united under the Relais & Châteaux banner will be demonstrating the richness of vegetables, and transmitting the desire to grow and eat well. Many Relais & Châteaux chefs will be inviting young people under the age of 20 to accompany them to the market and taste a vegetable-based recipe. By inviting them to follow them to the market and into the kitchen, and by talking to the youngsters about their professions and products, these chefs will become “responsible taste brokers”, passing on their knowledge to ensure the long-term success of the approach initiated by the association. The desire for beauty and goodness has a bright future ahead of it!
In Paris…
Market gardeners working hand-in-hand with Relais & Châteaux Chefs will be in the spotlight at a gourmet and educational market showcasing all their expertise from field to plate, fork to fork! To showcase the diversity of French produce and the richness of our terroir, 10 Relais & Châteaux chefs and their market gardeners will be on hand on Sunday September 27 for workshops and tastings at France’s finest vegetable market, set up for the day in Paris’s 9th arrondissement. Among them is Patrick Henriroux, who invites us into his kitchen and to his market garden for a preview.
Patrick Henriroux, Chef de la Pyramide, Vienne Florian & Sebastien Boyer, Market gardeners, Chonas l’Amballan
“I’ve always considered vegetables not as an accompaniment but as a central element of the plate. Maybe because my parents had a farm… To find out what a young chef can do, I always ask him or her to prepare a plate of vegetables, because they don’t tolerate mediocrity and demand the best: extreme freshness, controlled cutting, good seasoning and cooking. In summer, I propose a reversed menu: fish and meat become the accompaniment to vegetables, which take first place. At the height of the season, we can use up to 65 different varieties: we work with around a hundred producers, within a 20 km radius, each with their own speciality. I make sure that the work is done with respect for the environment, which has a real impact on taste. For example, in biodynamic viticulture, we steam disinfect the soil. In this warm, moist soil, if you plant an eggplant seed straight away, it will germinate much more quickly, leaving no time for weeds to grow around it. All the soil’s substrate will go to the vegetable, so no fertilizer or weedkiller will be needed: the soil won’t be impoverished… and the eggplant will have benefited from it all, making it all the better for it! The Rhone Valley has an exceptional market-gardening potential: in 1240, Vienne was already the world’s leading barter market. And every Saturday, the market brings together almost 400 producers over a 2 km area. On Florian and Sébastien’s bench, you’ll find nothing but their produce: small new potatoes, strawberries, cherries, artichokes, pumpkins, pumpkins, melons and green beans. Inspiration comes from seeing these fresh, beautiful products: we share the same notion of what’s good. It’s my duty to support them! Other growers come and bring me strawberries or raspberries at the restaurant: it’s an opportunity to talk about their taste and ripeness, and to encourage them in person, because much more than fruit, it’s a part of themselves that they’re entrusting to us. We must respect these growers by working with them and paying them a fair price, so that they’ll still be around tomorrow.
The opportunity for us to discover one of France’s finest restaurants, La Pyramide, located in the Vienne region.
Vienne had a large circus stretching for half a kilometer along the banks of the Rhône. The axis of the circus was marked by narrow constructions: the “Spina”, which chariot races circled. In the middle, a monument was erected to mark the circus in the distance. It was this pyramid that gave the establishment its name. Since the 19th century, this establishment has welcomed illustrious chefs such as Auguste Point.
In 1989, Patrick & Pascale Henriroux, who had been working at La Ferme de Mougins, were asked to take over the management of La Pyramide. A new beginning with a modern house, a magnificent restaurant, 2 private lounges, 24 rooms and a fabulous French garden.
Opened on June 18, 1989. “A sign, a call”, said Patrick Henriroux to his entire team. Seven months of hard work to get the message across that “we want to work without forgetting, but without forgetting to be up to date”. March 1990: La Pyramide receives its 1st Michelin star. March 1992: the 2nd star crowns the efforts made by all.
The secret of all this: welcome, service, smiles and kindness. Of course, the cuisine carries the house, but the hotel business adds a not inconsiderable plus to the Pyramide’s good reputation.
In March 1995, another thunderclap. The owner for whom the Henrirouxes and their team work was in financial difficulties. But no matter! Everyone pulls together. Regional customers supported the establishment with their regular visits.
In November 1996, a compromise was reached. Patrick & Pascale Henriroux bought the establishment, then became owners of the premises in June 1998.
The circle was completed on June 18, the anniversary of the reopening. “Always a sign, a call”, says Patrick Henriroux.
La Pyramide, one of the last 5 finalists in the “Best Hotel Restaurant in Europe” competition. Among the finalists were some of the biggest names in the hotel and restaurant business, including two Parisian palaces. So much for the class of this great man of gastronomy, Patrick Henriroux.
At La Pyramide Patrick Henriroux in Vienne, you’ll discover a “French” garden. Surrounded by greenery and birdsong, eating in such a setting will become more than a pleasure…
Not a bistro, not a brasserie, as they don’t like the name and the location is not suitable for this style of work.
Their desire? To create a convivial space with a demonstration kitchen, which they named ph3. Indeed, the Henriroux family had the good idea of making the number 3 their own: 3 starters, 3 main courses, 3 desserts, 3 white wines, 3 rosé wines, 3 red wines, 3 champagnes and 3 fruit juices.
But the idea doesn’t stop there. L’Espace PH3, as it was named by its creator, has the original feature of being arranged around a kitchen island where chefs officiate in front of guests.
Clean lines, comfortable seating and touches of acid colors give the place an energetic, dynamic atmosphere. From semi-smoked duck breast and fresh goat’s cheese to fresh cod cooked a la plancha.
From “pennes” to shellfish, you’ll be pleasantly surprised by Patrick Henriroux’s mix of flavors.
On the sweet side, roasted pear with spices, ice cream and Speculoos baguette will delight your taste buds!
A historic house to enjoy moments of escape and relaxation. Enjoy a warm and welcoming place where the soul, spirit and kindness of passionate people reign supreme.
At lunch, we were able to discover the full extent of the chef’s expertise.
To digest one of the finest collections of Chartreuse.
La Pyramide
14, boulevard Fernand Point
38200 Vienne, France
Tel: +334 74 53 01 96
Fax: +334 74 85 69 73
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