“I love the colorful clothes she wears And the way the sunlight plays upon her hair” Good Vibrations Beach Boys
Antonio Marrasis a master. The artistic director of Kenzo is a true master of color, and he proves it in a beautiful way by offering us a place in the sun with this Spring-Summer 2012 collection; an opportunity for him to evoke the casual elegance of the 60s and the carefree atmosphere of mythical summers.
But first, we need the precious sesame in the form of an invitation to the show. In the shape of a balloon containing a small boat and a world map centered on the Hawaiian Islands, our entry ticket is already an invitation to escape, fragrant with summer, trade winds and colorful, fragrant flowers. And our compass guiding us to faraway lands bathed in sunshine and caressed by the sea.
Right from the start of the show, the tone is set: the first notes of the Beach Boys ring out, and we’re on vacation. It’s time to let go of our dull, cramped clothes and don the colorful costumes of happy vacationers. The Kenzo Man is an explorer, and puts on his sailor suit: white pants, Bermuda shorts or jeans with lapels are de rigueur, and the red or black striped sailor suit has been brought up to date.
Shades of blue and yellow dominate this Spring Summer 2012 collection, under the banner of lightness and joie de vivre. Blues are electric, Klein or oceanic, recalling the depths of lagoons, while yellows shine. Self-sufficient, they can also be combined with original Hawaiian prints from the 60s.
The other colors are just as festive, and also do well in the midst of the “color block” trend. Green is vivid and intense, pink is fuchsia and flamboyant, blending with turquoise, but also softer in pastel shades. Muted shades such as gray and beige are also part of the mix.
The floral print so dear to Kenzo is not forgotten. We find it hand-painted on silk shirts with a slightly wide cut. Stripes and checks make a pas de deux and polka dots punctuate light, summery silhouettes.
The Kenzo man is a traveler at heart, preferring loose, supple cuts, like pyjamas. He loves suits, but doesn’t hesitate for a moment to replace pants with more relaxed Bermuda shorts. And when he keeps the pants on, they don’t impede his gait, giving him an airy style. He feels at home in “shirt fabrics” used to create jackets and three-quarter suits.
He sports bobs to match his printed suits, and walks nonchalantly in double-belted leather sandals. Closed but colorful shoes go hand in hand with high socks. Scarves are de rigueur, loosely tied around the neck. The bag is no longer worn over the shoulder, but at arm’s length as a clutch. The hair is notched.
An explosion of color, floral prints and lightness: these are Antonio Marras’ secrets for reconnecting with the spirit of vacation and joie de vivre. The Kenzo 2012 man will be casual but not forgetting to be chic in loosely cut Bermuda shorts. An explorer of faraway lands, he takes advantage of his vacation to be in a true bubble of well-being. Hence the bubbly finale to A Place in The Sun!
Photo credit: with the courtesy of Kenzo.
Marie-Odile Radom
Cette publication est également disponible en : Français (French)
