The appointment is given at the Hotel de la Monnaie where 48 dresses of the Lebanese designer are waiting for us. These are gala dresses, very sewing where the designer would almost abuse the rhinestones and sequins. Zuhair Murad revisits the wardrobe of the hussars, he combines officers’ jackets with draped dresses and muslin. The codes of femininity are respected, he creates shorter dresses and sensual necklines. The woman in this collection is piquant, she asserts her authority by drawing on the male uniform without abandoning her femininity. In addition to the uniform, more modern influences adorn unstructured dresses, shoulder pads are adorned with metal and silver and the designer plays equally on the volumes of his pieces. The color palette is wide, from gold, silver, pastel tones, to navy blue and some kissing red dresses that are most fondly remembered.
Anne-Sophie DUMAY
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