Unveiled in Milan, Malo’s Spring/Summer 2027 collection no longer relies on the classic structure of the suit to provide warmth, but instead focuses on fine knitwear and openwork patterns. This technical shift speaks volumes about the future of men’s summer wardrobes.
Knitwear as a structural element, rather than just an accessory
The collection is organized around lighter constructions, precise proportions, and a more fluid relationship with the body. Fine-gauge knits are paired with supple tailoring, outerwear pieces, and fine fabrics, all following the same principle: replacing the rigidity of the cut with the breathability of knitwear. The openwork stitch, in particular, is not merely decorative—it serves as a structural ventilation element, a way to allow air to circulate without compromising the garment’s structure.
This approach to building a summer wardrobe conveys something that the press release does not explicitly state: knitwear, long confined to sweaters and accessories, has itself become a fundamental element of formal wear. It is no longer the cut alone that defines the garment’s structure, but rather the density and gauge of the yarn.
This trend is not an isolated one. For several seasons now, men’s summer collections have been loosening the grip of the structured suit in favor of pieces that are less lined, less interlined, and more form-fitting—without sacrificing a polished look. Malo’s approach goes a step further: instead of lightening an existing suit construction, the brand starts directly with knitwear to build a tailored silhouette, shifting the technical focus from the scissors to the knitting machine.
A palette of low-angle light
The collection features sun-faded creams, soft naturals, and earthy browns, accented with touches of saturated orange and navy blue. This collection evokes not so much a season as a time of day—when the light, low and slanting, accentuates textures rather than bright colors. The chosen fabrics—technical linen, silk, and cashmere—extend this concept: they prioritize lightness without sacrificing substance.
Detail
Techniques: fine-gauge knit, openwork stitch, relaxed tailoring
Materials: technical linen, silk, cashmere, fine fibers
Color palette: washed-out pastels, natural tones, earthy browns, saturated orange, navy blue
Presentation: Milan, June 2026 — Spring/Summer 2027 Collection
Expertise built on the needle, not the scissors
Malo, an Italian fashion house based in Tuscany that has specialized in cashmere for several decades, has built its reputation on knitwear rather than tailoring—an area that traditional tailoring houses generally overlook. This collection reaffirms that positioning: technical expertise is no longer expressed solely through the cut, but also through the calibration of the knitting machine and the density of the yarn. Combining this expertise with outerwear and relaxed tailoring, as this collection does, amounts to bringing knitwear into a realm—the formal silhouette—where it has until now occupied a marginal role.
As summers get hotter and men’s dress codes become more relaxed, this approach to tailoring—rather than cutting—could well become the norm, rather than the exception.
The question remains: just how far can knitwear push the boundaries of formal wear without losing its structure? The answer won’t be decided on a runway, but in real-world use: a garment made of fine knitwear lives up to its promise of lightness only if it also withstands sitting, creasing, and the heat of a terrace at the end of the day—all challenges that the runway never shows, and that only the coming season will reveal.
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