The Maison Yves Salomon places its collection between two palettes, that of Morandi and that of Luis Barragán’s house-studio. The ribbons, piping and leather ties that the Maison announces as finishing give something else to read.
The Maison sets two universes against each other. The first takes up Giorgio Morandi’s palette: frosted blues, beiges, taupes, deep blues. The second draws on Luis Barragán’s house-studio: pinks, reds, bright yellows. The collection, according to the Maison, moves from one to the other like a light that changes over the course of the day. In the 21 looks of the lookbook, the first universe takes up the most space, with the beiges of the trench coat, the browns, the blacks and the navies. The second arrives in touches: an orange-red dress draped around a golden ring (look 1), a bright yellow (look 2), the green of a cuff.
The materials are those of a fluid season: textured tweeds, blended linens, jersey, silk crêpe. Cool wool provides structure and the cashmere knit is worn like a second skin. Mink, which the Maison presents as its signature, becomes a micro cape. The perforated leather draws dotted flowers, which the Maison compares to a canvas by Kusama.
The decisive detail lies elsewhere, in what the Maison calls the preciousness of the finish. It cites jewel buttons, scarf collars, suede underscored with leather ribbons worked like lace, cashmere piped with leather, fine leather ties at the waist of a dress or skirt. The lookbook gives a few visible examples: a black dress whose waist is tightened by a row of small golden buttons (look 19), an ochre cardigan whose collar ties as a scarf (look 7).
It remains to place what this changes for a Maison known for fur and leather. These materials still make whole pieces: a suede jacket, a short jacket, a mink. But the collection insists, in its own terms, on their use as trim, ribbon, piping, tie and perforation, where they previously served as the main material. This is where the judgment lands, and it is also its limit. No piece has been examined. The references to Morandi, Barragán and Kusama are the Maison’s. The announced finishes belong to the close-up, which the lookbook shows only in part.
What the collection promises will be verified on the seam: whether the leather ribbon holds there like lace or like a border.
Read also on Luxsure: Yves Salomon Spring-Summer 2026: The fluid architecture of leather · Yves Salomon and the paradox of summer leather · Yves Salomon AW 2026/27: when mink learns to vibrate · Yves Salomon Men Summer 2026 — Leather as the architecture of masculine elegance
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