Sake production is the fruit of complex know-how, mastered in Japan for over 1000 years. In Niigata, a mountainous region facing the ocean, the secret can be summed up in a single word: snow. Snowfall is two to three times the annual average. Niigata is renowned for the high quality of its rice, of course, but also for its pristine waters. This fresh mountain water, this unique rice and these craftsmen make Niigata the best sake producer in the world.
Niigata and its exceptional climate: At the heart of the world’s best sake
Set in a particularly rich natural environment, Niigata boasts numerous bodies of water, including the Sea of Japan, the Shinano and Agano rivers, and its sublime lagoons. The vast
he fertile Echigo plain offers a wide range of agricultural production, with rice being by far the most important crop, as Niigata is Japan’s leading rice producer. What’s more, this plain also enables Niigata to position itself as the country’s leading producer of tulips and flowers, and to boast the title of kingdom of gastronomy. With a rice-growing area unrivalled in Japan, it boasts a quality terroir that gives its products exceptional flavour, particularly the renowned Niigata rice. It’s a recognition that Niigata has been keen to share with France, itself a land of gastronomy, through a twinning arrangement with the city of Nantes since 2009.
The city of Niigata, capital of the eponymous prefecture, is located north-west of Tokyo (approx. 300 km), on the estuary of the Shinano River, Japan’s longest. For a long time, Niigata was a major port, the most important on the Sea of Japan. Today, it is a modern industrial city, famous for the quality of its rice and sake, as well as for the distinctive architecture of its houses designed for a lifestyle adapted to the region’s very heavy snowfalls. It is also the port of embarkation for the island of Sado.
A city in a particularly rich natural setting
Heavy rainfall is one of the determining factors in the artisanal creation of the highest quality sake, having a strong impact for 3 distinct reasons:
– The snow melts and the run-off water creates large, untouched rice fields for growing rice. This creates one of the purest environments in the world for growing rice,
– Pure water from melted snow is also an important component in the brewing process, as water is the main ingredient in sake (apart from rice),
Finally, the purity of the air dominates in this winter climate. As a result, the brewing process takes place in a healthy atmosphere, free from pollutants that could adversely affect sake quality.
Most of Niigata’s sake houses (100 brewers) concentrate their efforts on handcrafted production of incredible quality. They produce sake in small quantities,
, which today accounts for 8% of all sake made in Japan. A sake research institute at the forefront of innovation Niigata is the only Prefecture in Japan to host the Sake Research Institute, founded in 1930. A pioneering, forward-looking professional organization whose sole mission is to improve the quality and variety of Niigata sake. This involves research into koji (fungus), the development of new rice varieties
and temperature control in the fermentation process. For example, the Institute recently developed a new rice-sake variety called “Koshi Tanrei”, which is set to become the flagship rice for sake producers in Niigata, particularly for their Daiginjo and Ginjo sakes. Today, it’s no wonder that Niigata sake is the best in the world. The ideal climate for sake production combines perfectly with the advances made by the research institute and the traditional art of Echigo Toji (master brewer) to create optimal conditions and produce sake of the highest quality.
A sake school for the younger generation
In 1984, a sake school was founded in Niigata. Seishu Gakkou, as it is called, was founded by a group of sake brewers in Niigata to train young craftsmen in the trade. Today, 24 graduates of the school are working as master brewers in Niigata, representing around
quarter of the Tojis in Niigata prefecture.
The various stages involved in making sake are a complex process involving not only yeast, but also the expertise of the toji, the brewmaster, a key figure at
Sakagura (Breweries). He is the equivalent of the cellar master at a winery, overseeing all these essential stages. He’s a true artist who uses his senses and love of a job well done, a perfect combination of
art and science.
Sake means rice polishing (Seimaibuai) The Japanese term seimaibuai refers to the rate of rice polishing used in sake production. This stage, the first in the production process, consists of removing the fat- and protein-rich outer layer of the grain to
facilitate fermentation. A sake with a seimaibuai of 40%, for example, means that the rice has lost 60% of its weight by the end of the polishing stage.
The outer husk of the rice grain is very rich in lipids, proteins and mineral salts which, in large quantities, can inhibit fermentation and pollute the finished product. Once the outer husk has been removed, the rice grain, of which only the heart remains, takes on a white color and a rounded shape. This exposes the starch in the heart, enabling fermentation to take place.
The rice is polished mechanically, a process that generally takes 2 to 3 days. Rice can be polished round or flat, depending on the variety. Rice that has been polished leaves
its core, called shinpako, visible. The residue from polishing the rice has several uses: the least good will be used as cattle feed, the second will go to
the agricultural cooperative, and the third will be distilled and used as the base alcohol for Uméshu plum liqueur. After polishing comes the rice washing stage. The rice is washed with pure water. Washing increases the weight of the rice by 10-20% through water absorption.
The different stages of sake-making
Soaking and draining
Once washed, the rice is placed in soaking tanks, where it remains until the water has penetrated the heart of the rice. This operation takes 3 hours, and makes the rice more suitable for steaming. The rice must not be left in the water any longer, otherwise it will become unusable. This operation requires the utmost vigilance, and everything is controlled by a stopwatch. The rice is then drained.
Steaming
This type of cooking transforms the rice starch into glue. This stage is also a means of heat protection, as the cooked rice also acts as a fixative for the koji.
Shubo
Shubo is the leaven, the basis of fermentation. It is in this mixture of water, Koji, yeast and steamed rice that the process of making ethyl alcohol begins.
Different producers use different varieties of yeast.
Koji production
After cooking, the rice is cooled to 34° and placed in a room called the Koji room, where the temperature and humidity are stabilized. The rice is spread out on cloths located on large
wooden tables. To facilitate the process, the rice is stacked and wrapped in cloth for two to three hours, until its temperature and humidity are uniform. Then, after a phase of sprinkling the rice, the whole is kneaded.
What’s koji?
This is the Japanese name for the fungus Aspergillus Orizae. It is the key ingredient in the production of sake. It is the addition of this microscopic fungus that enables the rice to ferment. You could say it’s a kind of noble mold. As the fungus grows on the rice, it releases enzymes that transform the starch into sugar. This is how the flavors develop, giving the sake subtle nuances.
Moromi
Sake must is called Moromi. It takes four days to mash, in four stages:
– day 1, the mash is mixed with water, and three hours later, steamed rice is added;
– day 2, the mash is left to rest to ensure complete fermentation;
– day 3, Koji, steamed rice and water are added, in quantities twice those of day 1;
– day 4, the same thing is done, but in volumes twice those of day 1.
This staged system ensures stable, efficient fermentation.
After vatting, the must is left to ferment for around 20 to 25 days. The alcohol content reaches between 18 and 20 degrees. The fermentation principle is unique to sake.
Fermentation takes a long time and takes place at a low temperature of between 10 and 15°. The Koji will continue to transform the starch into sugars, which are in turn converted into alcohol by the yeasts in a unique fermentation system. This phenomenon, in which the Koji and yeast continue to work simultaneously in the same tank, is known as the
parallel multiple fermentation system. No other beverage in the world uses the same fermentation principle.
Pressing
This takes place in an automatic press or in canvas bags. This traditional draining technique, known as Kubitsuri, which means “to take by the neck”, is used for great sakes.
Racking and filtering
The sake obtained from pressing is left to rest for 10 days in a tank with two superimposed bungs at the bottom. The upper of these is used to rack the clear sake, while the lower is used to drain off the lees. The drawn-off sake is filtered through activated charcoal. This operation regulates taste and aroma, prevents discoloration and avoids souring and over-ripening. Different sakes are then blended to produce the desired
sake, in the same way as wine is blended in France.
Hot sterilization
At this stage, there is a risk that the sake will be damaged by a parasitic mold, Hiochi Kin, a fungus that produces acetic acid and clouds the sake’s clarity. This risk is avoided by heating to 60°.
Sake maturation
Before bottling, the sake is placed in enamel casks. During this time, the fragrance and taste develop, and the sake becomes less aggressive and rounder. Freshly-pressed sake has an alcohol content of 20°. Before bottling, it is lowered with water to between 14 and 16°.
Second hot sterilization
At bottling time, the sake is hot-sterilized a second time, either by pouring the sake heated to 65° into the bottle, or by bottling the sake and soaking it in a vat of water heated to 65°. The sake is then left to rest for 6 months before being marketed. Sake is generally consumed within a year of production. Some sakes are kept in vats for two or three years, but these do not represent a large production. As sake ages, it loses its crystalline quality and gains in color.
Sake also undergoes an aromatic evolution. As with wine, it loses some of its primary aromas and takes on notes of evolution. Sake is also fragile, so it must be stored away from light and kept at a constant temperature. Sake of superior quality is classified according to the quality of the rice used, its degree of polish and the quantity of neutral alcohol added:
Sake classification
Some tasting characteristics:
Saké Junmai: This generic term refers to sakes whose only ingredients are rice and koji rice, whatever the degree of polishing. Their pronounced rice flavor offers a very
beautiful sensation.
Saké Junmai Ginjo: This sake has a very good balance between its slightly fruity notes and its rice flavor. It has established itself as the most popular sake of recent years. Particularly recommended for novices.
Saké Junmai Daiginjo: This sake has pronounced rice aromas reminiscent of freshly cooked rice and rice cakes. Refined and elegant, it is considered a
premium sake.
Honjozo Sake: A dry sake par excellence. Many niigata sakes are made using this process. This is a sake that enhances the flavors of dishes.
Saké Ginjo: This sake has the same characteristics as daiginjo, but the number of varieties is often high. Its texture is smooth, like tofu.
Saké Daiginjo: Fruity and elegant, it retains a lively, fresh nose. On the palate, it’s a dry sake with a pronounced taste. Niigata sakes are by far the best in the world, and the figures speak for themselves. Almost 1/2 of Japan’s total sake production comes from Hyogo and Kyoto, as these cities are dominated by national brands with large production capacities. By contrast, most of the 100 sake producers
in Niigata are family-run businesses with exclusive, traditional and sometimes confidential production methods.
Niigata sakes
(8%) rank 3rd on the total market by volume (Hyogo /32% – Kyoto/14%), but they rank 1st with 18% on the premium market Ginjo; Daiginjo against only Hyogo 9% and Kyoto 10%. Niigata producers
devote all their efforts to making top-quality sake.
Chef Guy Martin honors 5 Niigata sakes
Niigata called on the talents of Guy Martin, 2 Michelin-starred chef from Restaurant Le Grand Vefour, who took part in a tasting session to devise food pairings for Niigata sakes and spirits. The result: 5 sweet and savory recipes that sublimate them with great delicacy.
” I consider sake to be like wine, and in fact it’s possible to do a real traditional
tasting. It can accompany an entire menu, not just one dish. What’s
interesting is the diversity and complexity of Japanese sake. As with
wine, it can be tasted according to preference and taste. Japanese sake has a beautiful
length on the palate and a complexity that goes very well with foie gras and fish such as Saint-Pierre. Plum uméshu, on the other hand, is almost syrupy, and goes perfectly with desserts such as Saint-Honoré, adding a note of freshness”.
How many kg of rice are needed to make a 72 cl bottle of sake?
2 kg of Junmai Ginjo rice (with at least 50% polish) are needed to produce 1 liter of sake.
Sake, hot or cold?
Sake is a fermented spirit that can be drunk hot or cold, at temperatures ranging from 5° to 60°C. For an elegant Dai Ginjo, serving hot may erase some of the complexity of aromas and flavors. Junmai, on the other hand, opens up better with heat, and is usually served in the “tokkuri”, a small ceramic bottle.
How long does a bottle of sake last once it’s opened?
Normally, sake should be consumed as quickly as possible to appreciate all its finesse and subtlety, while preserving its aromas. It should be kept refrigerated, ideally at around 5°C, with the bottle tightly sealed. It can then be kept for several weeks.
What’s the difference between wine and sake?
Both are obtained by fermentation. In the case of wine, a single fermentation is sufficient, whereas in the case of sake, a parallel multiple fermentation system is used. Rice, unlike grapes
does not contain monosaccharides, or any other type of glucose, and it is necessary to add a fermenting agent, the koji, so that the rice starch is transformed into glucose, which is in turn transformed into alcohol by the yeast at
.
Can I keep an unopened bottle?
It’s best to drink most vintages of sake within a year of production. As with wine, there is no notion of ageing. However, there are sakes for
aging that are called Koshu.
And the storage of sake bottles?
Sake bottles should be stored upright. Ideally refrigerated at a temperature of around 5°C, away from light, which is also a good
serving temperature.
What does the label say?
The polishing rate of the rice is indicated (50, i.e. 50% polishing rate), and the figure shown is always what’s left after polishing. The lower the figure, the better the sake. Finally,
indicates the year the rice was harvested, followed by the year in which the sake-making process was carried out.
Beware of preconceived ideas about alcohol content!
Sake is confusing for most consumers. Few equate it with rice wine, but many more with rice alcohol. Sake culture in France is very limited. It must also be said that many of the sakes available on the French market do not represent the very best in terms of production. Sake has an alcohol content of between 14 and 20 degrees and is fully classified as a wine, since it is produced by fermenting rice rather than
distilling it.
Sake and religion?
Sake is less widely consumed in Japan today, although it remains firmly rooted in Japanese culture, particularly in the religious sphere. It has always been linked to the
Shinto religion, an animist religion that considers all beings, trees, animals and stones to be divinities. Sake is both an offering and a means of communicating with these divinities. The Japanese emperor has his own specially-prepared cuvee, produced from his personal rice paddy.
Is sake uniquely Japanese?
Not only in China, but also in Australia and the USA. But there’s no denying that high-quality sake is Japanese.
Here is a video showing the traditional sake-making process, filmed in Niigata’s oldest sake house, Yoshinogawa :
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