Hermès, Arceau Tigre

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Hermès Horloger has created the first timepiece to use the unique “Enamel Ombrant” technique. This method, which took two years to adapt, uses light to reveal, in relief, the motif of a watch dial.
Echoing Hermès’ 2016 annual theme “Nature at full gallop”, the fawn featured on the Arceau Tigre dial is taken from an illustration by artist Robert Dallet, who collaborated with the company in the 1980s.
To reveal the full power of the feline depicted, the technique of l’Email ombrant, which combines the art of engraving and enamel, was chosen. This technique, derived from lithophanie and originally practiced in the Limoges region of France, creates paintings that reveal themselves only when light shines through. The motif is created in negative in a mold into which the porcelain cookie is poured to form the work. When it comes to creating the mold, the craftsman’s talent lies in his ability to imagine the variations in cookie thickness that will give the nuances so sought-after. Patented by Paul Bourgoin en Tremblay in 1841, Enamel Ombrant is based on the same basic principle. In this case, however, the craftsman shapes the motif in relief before covering it with lightly tinted translucent enamel.

As the material accumulates in the deepest areas, it becomes denser and darker. In contrast, the most prominent parts are barely covered and therefore remain very clear. The technique requires a totally different approach to traditional relief engraving. Cavities and reliefs are worked solely according to the light they will catch or reflect. In this way, an Enamel Ombrant engraving reveals itself only when set in the enamel.

Enamel Ombrant involves a complete symbiosis between engraver and enameller to master the complex interplay of nuances and create the mystery that surrounds each piece. Together, they analyze the initial design, its degree of transparency, the personality of the piece and determine halos, zones of light and shadow.
Created on a white gold base, the Arceau Tigre dial goes even further. Depending on the degree of transparency required, the engraver has reproduced the shape of the fur’s hairs to maintain the appearance of the initial sketch. The enameller brings it to life with an appropriate choice of translucent grey enamel. The tiger’s head thus comes to life through the penetration of light and its effects of depth. Playing with optical illusions, Enamel Ombrant opens up a new creative field by liberating the palette of gradations.
Asymmetrical, the Arceau case is one of Hermès’ watchmaking signatures. Inspired by a stirrup, its top clasp evokes a horseshoe. The generous case is crafted in white gold by the Hermès workshops. Its transparent caseback gives access to the heart of the watch. The bracelet showcases the House’s leatherworking expertise.
L’Arceau Tigre, limited to 12 pieces, is powered by the Swiss-made H1837 in-house movement. Mechanical with automatic winding, it features hours and minutes. The plate, the base of the caliber, is adorned with spiral circular graining, while the oscillating weight and the balance cock are decorated with Hermès’ signature H-semi structure.

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