Dancers, immaculate little opera rats, young girls advancing on their pointe shoes: Franck Sorbier offers us a veritable ballet of lace, organza and precious materials worked in the art of haute couture. With catlike steps, the collection floats above the catwalk. Feathers encircle the tapered shoulders of the dancing models. Crocheted capes wrap the bodysuits, giving them wings. Tutus are reworked to resemble clouds of chiffon or feathers. Longer models don’t seem to constrain the body’s movements. The female body can be revealed with grace.
Franck Sorbier recounts his inspiration in dreamlike prose. His walk in the metro, his vision of the poster for Nuri Bilge Ceylan’s film “The winter sleep” (Palme d’Or 2014), the floating soul of the Japanese Ukiyo.e movement, the symbolism of snow, the tribute to Maïa Plissetskaïa and the exceptional presence of Laura Hecquet.
He fuses all these references into a breathtaking collection. White isn’t imposed by the designer, it’s there, like the humble servant of mountain landscapes. The shades reflect this pure expanse, depending on the light of day. The volumes of the dresses are inspired both by the tutus of the dancers and the shapes that snow can take: flake, stalactite, ice. A work of composition that pays tribute to “the Diva of Dance” (Maïa Plissetskaïa), who passed away at the beginning of May. A charismatic personality, a soloist with legendary technique, who did more than dance; she offered a true interpretation of the roles she embodied. A versatile artist, just like Franck Sorbier.
A “Master of Art” since 2010, the couturier has been acclaimed by the most prestigious awards and institutions for his work in couture, but also for his commitment and artistic involvement. His film on haute-couture and his experimental work, notably the presentation of an haute-couture collection using 3d mapping techniques in 2012, have all made their mark. There’s no shortage of awards for this designer, who’s always on the lookout for something new.
Laura Hecquet, the collection’s godmother, was honored to take part in the creative process for this Fall Winter 2015-2016 collection. A muse of choice.
Through 18 models, a woman’s era is shaped by winter landscapes. Airy yet profound, this collection works the magic of haute couture. Like helium, it transports us far away from people and things. A journey you don’t want to wake up from.
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