The 2015-2016 couture show by Serbian designer Zvonko Markovic took place in the nave of the Palais Brongniart. This was the Belgrade-born designer’s first show in Paris, where his mastery of the leather that sculpts feminine silhouettes is unquestionable.
Entitled “Midnight Butterfly”, it’s the transition from lightweight materials like tulle, silk and lace to stiffer, impenetrable leather. The deep blacks are reminiscent of petroleum, a petroleum that gradually gives way to the brilliance of bullion. Black gold sums up this collection. Although suave, the designer hails from a country with a strong history of war and conflict. This collection, in which materials become both rigid and increasingly shiny, is a metaphor for the struggle of these young designers, and their determination.
Sculpted in rigid corsets, and reflecting the lights of the night, the Zvonko Markovic woman has a marked waist and emphasized shoulders: a build that reflects her strength, yet remains very feminine thanks to finely cut lace, revealing bare backs topped with long trains.
A first show that testifies to his knowledge of materials, particularly leather, and his expertise in cut-outs that sublimate the female body. We can only hope the designer continues his gold rush!
Photo credits: Pierre Sénard
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