CoSTUME NATIONAL chose the same inspirations as for its men’s show in Milan for its Autumn/Winter women’s ready-to-wear collection. The emphasis is on dark cuts and colors, with a touch of Italian grace and elegance.
After color-blocking, I propose that we agree on a new portmanteau, fabric-blocking, to designate the mix of materials so dear to the designer at CoSTUME NATIONAL. Because that’s what it’s all about: suede, leather, silk….FABRIC-BLOCKING! The result is elegant, of course, and aimed at young, active, slightly rebellious women.
Rebels (a bit), because the show’s playlist only included punk music. The attitude is rock, detached and edgy, almost sanguine. And it shows in the clothes. The color palette is dark, but subtle whites and reds pop up here and there.
Silhouettes range from tomboyish (rebellion/rock obliges…) or androgynous to the most glamorous and romantic.
Tailoring is the common denominator of the collection, and draping is king in the kingdom of CoSTUME NATIONAL. There are two reasons for their existence: to decorate the garment, which is strict, or to decorate the movement (so theatrical!!).
As you can see, the CoSTUME NATIONAL woman is nervous and versatile, as she can play in all categories from androgynous to grand dame in evening gown. And that’s exactly what this collection has managed to capture.
Photographs by Pascal Iakovou (Nikon D800)
Mary Yasmine Arrouche
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