If we can’t wait to see Miharayasuhiro’s creations on the catwalks of Men’s Fashion Week, it’s because they amaze us season after season. Original, audacious and sophisticated, Miharayasuhiro has delivered a new collection full of poetry.
The first silhouettes appeared to the sound of piano music played by the Japanese designer’s wife, Hiromi Uehara. Wise and elegant, they suggest that Miharayasuhiro’s men’s wardrobe will be preppy-inspired. A white shirt buttoned all the way to the collar, a jacquard sweater and a slim-fitting black jacket with white trim at the ends: all the dress codes of the perfect preppy are here.
But the models quickly followed one another, revealing the true essence of the show. Falsely preppy silhouettes gave way to disillusioned dandies. Entitled The Nihilists, Miharayasuhiro’s show is a testament to fallen elegance. Some garments resemble rags, deliberately worn and torn in places. Sweaters and shorts are crudely tapered. Impressive for a designer known for his perfectionism? Not necessarily. In this collection, every imperfection becomes a detail of new sophistication and elegance.
Coats are patched, becoming patchworks of different materials. Suits, usually straight and tight-fitting, become fuller and twisted, giving the silhouette an extra touch of nonchalance for a garment often considered rigid and strict.
Miharayasuhiro’s new-found elegance is also evident in his asymmetrical cuts, which he has given pride of place in this collection. The Japanese designer’s hybrid cape was the show’s signature piece. Sweaters, jackets and coats were all cleverly hijacked and redesigned to create original, unique pieces.
Favoring jersey over cotton, Miharayasuhiro’s refinement is also underlined by her choice of materials. We were presented with beautiful pieces in fur and leather.
Finally, the accessories subtly perfect these silhouettes, whose dishevelment is ultimately perfectly studied. Jewelry – fine gold and silver chains intertwined and placed on the shoulders and lapels of jackets – supports the casualness of a nonchalant gait, hands in pockets. But above all, they bear witness to a certain refinement and beauty: that of detail. Shoes inspired by the Victorian period sometimes add a touch of color, with gold here and there. Gold is also found sparingly on the hair of some models, whose locks have been covered with gold dust.
Miharayasuhiro’s daring collection, supported by music that never ceases to heighten our emotions, took us far off the beaten track for just a few minutes.
Romain Menei
Cette publication est également disponible en : Français (French)
