The Smalto man is a man of retro elegance, reminiscent of a talented Mr. Ripley sunning himself in the port of Saint-Tropez. It is a neat dandy, clearly anchored in his time and comfortable in his wardrobe that the designer Youn Chong Bak offers us for the spring-summer 2011 season.
The silhouette is sleek and fluid in a true cameo of pastel and mineral tones. Deep blue, pastels, gray, coral or green dominate but are sometimes combined with brick or bronze highlights. Fabrics with a pearly and metallic aspect capture the light for jackets and pants worn in mismatched tones as if to better free oneself from the rules and assert one’s identity.
The dandy Smalto likes fitted suits in sand, gray or pastel blue, a thin scarf sometimes wrapped around his neck. Worn with a shirt or a simple knit, this new suit reveals a natural elegance without ostentatious details, as in this taupe-toned suit worn with a small fine knit and a simple pair of sandals. Youn Chong Bak masters perfectly his subject and allows himself a new beige tuxedo of any beauty worn with two-tone moccasins in the same tones.
For a casual outfit, the artistic director does not hesitate to reinvent the suit in jacket and Bermuda shorts or in jacket and jeans necessarily worn with lapels. The Bermuda shorts can be worn with a small fine V-neck knit and a pair of high shoes between sneakers and walking shoes.
The Smalto man likes the juxtaposition of materials where the jean rubs shoulders with more noble materials. Associated with a tuxedo jacket and a bow tie, it becomes the “jean couture”. This unexpected silhouette is a tribute to the historic suit of the house Smalto which he takes the codes. We will retain the ultra elegance of the black tuxedo jacket worn with a bow tie on pants coated with gold particles, bow tie to wear in all circumstances both in daytime and evening.
We find with pleasure the sporty chic look so dear to Youn Chong Bak: windbreakers, impers and sarees cohabit with city pants or Bermuda shorts in light colors simply worn with sandals.
Youn Chong Bak reinvents the dandy’s wardrobe in more graphic models that we imagine will quickly become must-have basics. The designer modernizes the suit, the cuts have a perfect fall in soft tones. It multiplies the technical prowess through subtle details: the double lapels are stitched, the lapels are cut and subtly dressed with organic shapes in satin or alcantara. The pockets are rounded and buttoned.
The synthetic fabrics are light while others more technical are iridescent with metallic threads. The shirts are graphic and have cutouts at the cuffs and collars. Here again, the details abound, never ceasing to amaze…
The audience was captivated by this new dandy. The House of Smalto brilliantly demonstrates that natural elegance can be enhanced with a touch of fantasy and boldness without becoming distorted, quite the contrary. We remain under the spell and the silhouette of Alain Delon in talented Ripley does not finish deciding …
Marie-Odile Radom
Cette publication est également disponible en : Français (French)
