For the 20th anniversary of the brand Tsumori Chisato, the Japanese designer trained at Issey Miyake invites us to travel through this Fall Winter collection. The floor luxuriously covered with Persian carpets, a transparent veil tent in the background, it is inside a real caravanserai that the designer presents her anniversary collection that we guess inspired by the East to the fashion travelers that we are.
She begins by presenting us with her version of Swiss guards in the form of black and white fashion guards. The designer offers us a number of two-tone fluid models (ball skirts, collars, loose tunics) where the stripe is very present, in a graphic spirit constantly renewed.
The spirit of the collection becomes more and more military thanks to a quality transition in the form of a fairly structured straight coat. She gradually abandons the austerity of black and white to bring us to the color by touches of violet through pants all in transparency and velvet, until finding the military spirit in the form of a two-tone black and purple cape officer.
The tone is set, each new inspiration will be accompanied by a variation of the officer’s jacket and therefore by a new fashion keeper. Note this beige coat with red leather pockets imitating bags, presented in a simple version and then in its officer version. The colorful and vaporous models follow one another. Here, a black velvet bolero adorned with gold is not unlike a certain Christian Lacroix. The oriental spirit is well present defining the revival of a colorful bohemian-gypsy style made of prints always so fluid. The coats as well as the dresses are long for the most part but always in the idea of a certain fluidity.
The cord decorating some models, is sometimes finished with trimmings. The capes are discreet in neutral tones.
From the East to Eastern Europe, the spirit of this collection is almost at the borders of countries of a thousand and one nights along the Mediterranean. The boho style in all its splendor made of fluid materials, cashmere, colors, very far from the furs of rigor conducive to the winter seasons.
Marie-Odile RADOM
Photo Credit : Germain Hazard
Cette publication est également disponible en : Français (French)
